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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So...

My 1995 Ford e350 class c has had two broken exhaust manifold bolts for a little while. Also, I got 6 miles per gallon fully loaded and towing a 3200 lb car 2100 miles.
These big blocks (7.5l 460)are notorious for breaking those bolts and there's only one permanent fix. Headers. And there's only one company in the world that makes them anymore for this application - Doug Thorley.

I want more power, better mpg, and a permanent fix so beside just the headers, I'm going all out (with bolt ons).

After the headers, a 3" single exhaust with a BIG Magnaflow muffler. (there is no cat) Freer flowing air intake, restrictors opened up, and a k&n filter. 225lph fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and gauge (set at 46lbs) and 26lb injectors. Timing advanced to 12 from 10. Msd coil and 8.5mm wires along with iridium spark plugs. Misc. new valves and sensors and a Banks Transcommand for the E4OD.

I expect better hp, torque, and staying off the gas pedal, better mpg as well. I have no idea what the final numbers will be - maybe someone can give me a good idea...?

I will update in late December after I have a chance to drive it a couple of hundred miles to my next destination
 

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So...

My 1995 Ford e350 class c has had two broken exhaust manifold bolts for a little while. Also, I got 6 miles per gallon fully loaded and towing a 3200 lb car 2100 miles.
These big blocks (7.5l 460)are notorious for breaking those bolts and there's only one permanent fix. Headers. And there's only one company in the world that makes them anymore for this application - Doug Thorley.

I want more power, better mpg, and a permanent fix so beside just the headers, I'm going all out (with bolt ons).

After the headers, a 3" single exhaust with a BIG Magnaflow muffler. (there is no cat) Freer flowing air intake, restrictors opened up, and a k&n filter. 225lph fuel pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator and gauge (set at 46lbs) and 26lb injectors. Timing advanced to 12 from 10. Msd coil and 8.5mm wires along with iridium spark plugs. Misc. new valves and sensors and a Banks Transcommand for the E4OD.

I expect better hp, torque, and staying off the gas pedal, better mpg as well. I have no idea what the final numbers will be - maybe someone can give me a good idea...?

I will update in late December after I have a chance to drive it a couple of hundred miles to my next destination
 

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I have a '93 e-350 boxvan thats half RV and half garage with the same manifold problems.

I have been looking at the Banks headers since they have a 5/8 thick flange and are made of stainless.

I will be interested to hear of you results!

PS-How did you get the broken bolts out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a '93 e-350 boxvan thats half RV and half garage with the same manifold problems.

I have been looking at the Banks headers since they have a 5/8 thick flange and are made of stainless.

I will be interested to hear of you results!

PS-How did you get the broken bolts out?
Banks doesn't make headers for the older vans anymore, although someone did say the ones for the F series trucks were the same...

The bolts that were broken - the heads snapped off, so after the manifolds came off it was just a matter of carefully unscrewing them with vice grips. They and the rest were soaked with PB Blaster over several days before beginning and by loosening slowly about a 1/4 turn and re-tightening about an 1/8 turn, the rest came out. It was a long process, but it went OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I decided to upgrade the accumulator valve body from Dieselsite and skip the Transcommand and add an Intellitronix ignition. Stock plugs are gapped at .044 - I increased that to .049. Intellitronix suggests opening in increments of .005 at a time until it feels right - I'm not taking those plugs out again for a long time so that's going to have to work.
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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Old school trick that may help with highway driving for fuel economy, get a vacuum guage. Hook it up to straight manifold vacuum, when on the highway try to keep it at the highest vacuum you can. You'll even find that sometimes on a hill you will do better to downshift instead of making the engine pull harder.. With higher vacuum you'll get better fuel economy, and even learn how to ease the throttle better to keep the needle higher... It's an old school trick that most ppl have forgotten how to use these days...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Old school trick that may help with highway driving for fuel economy, get a vacuum guage. Hook it up to straight manifold vacuum, when on the highway try to keep it at the highest vacuum you can. You'll even find that sometimes on a hill you will do better to downshift instead of making the engine pull harder.. With higher vacuum you'll get better fuel economy, and even learn how to ease the throttle better to keep the needle higher... It's an old school trick that most ppl have forgotten how to use these days...
Yeah, I've never heard of that. I added fuel pressure and trans temp gauges and need a third to fill my a-pillar pod lol. Maybe I'll give that a try...
 

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I'm a firm believer in a vacuum guage, it'll also tell you what's going on inside your engine when you learn everything they can tell you... If your rings are weak, if the valve seals are weak, all kinda stuff.. great troubleshooting tool!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm a firm believer in a vacuum guage, it'll also tell you what's going on inside your engine when you learn everything they can tell you... If your rings are weak, if the valve seals are weak, all kinda stuff.. great troubleshooting tool!!
I learned a long time ago how valuable a vacuum gauge is - but I didn't think to install a permanent one - now I'm thinking about it. Thanks!
 

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Banks doesn't make headers for the older vans anymore, although someone did say the ones for the F series trucks were the same...

The bolts that were broken - the heads snapped off, so after the manifolds came off it was just a matter of carefully unscrewing them with vice grips. They and the rest were soaked with PB Blaster over several days before beginning and by loosening slowly about a 1/4 turn and re-tightening about an 1/8 turn, the rest came out. It was a long process, but it went OK.
I spoke to Banks and they did confirm the F-series headers fit the E-series vans.

Any idea if removing all of the emissions equipment will cause a problem (its over 25 years old and can be registered as an antique in Texas which doesn’t require testing).

I
Metal Silver
s this the air horn or silencer mentioned in another thread?
 

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Don't remove or disable the EGR valve with out turning it off in the ecm.

SJ
used 2b RHP


.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I spoke to Banks and they did confirm the F-series headers fit the E-series vans.

Any idea if removing all of the emissions equipment will cause a problem (its over 25 years old and can be registered as an antique in Texas which doesn’t require testing).

I View attachment 92164 s this the air horn or silencer mentioned in another thread?
That's like mine - no silencer in there, just a straight flow. However, right where the air comes in, that part of the ducting on mine looks like they restricted the air there - before going into the filter box...
 

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That's like mine - no silencer in there, just a straight flow. However, right where the air comes in, that part of the ducting on mine looks like they restricted the air there - before going into the filter box...
The silencer in your pics is near the cold air pick up.

The H or connection is simply to provide structural integrity and a place to pic up air for the IAB


SJ
used 2b RHP
 

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