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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 532. 13.2 probe pistons, comp solid roller Kasse designed k1. Ford motorsport high volume pump.
 

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Depends on what kind of use your going to be doing... If you are bracket racing and don't want to spend a fortune on oil, and that little bit of extra hp isn't a big deal... then I would stay with something like Valvoline Racing 20w50.... However if you are open to a more expensive synthetic then look at Royal Purple, RedLine, Lucas, or a commonly used one. Royal Purple is carried by most parts stores.... so that is usually easier. Then you could go with a lighter weight.... just keep an eye on your pressure. The lighter weight synthetic will have a lower pressure at idle but not something to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Cale. So no matter what stay around 20w50. I dont care to spend the money i just want my motor to stay protected.
 

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That should keep you safe.... ;)
 

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I find that SYNTHETIC ends up costing less than conventional, when you look at things in long term approach.
Less failure due to over heating the oil= less money spent at the machine shop.
Longer intervals= less money spent on oil.

When to Choose a Synthetic
When designing a lubrication program, I use a very simple set of rules to know when to choose a synthetic for an application. They are as follows:

•when equipment-performance demands exceed the capabilities of mineral-based fluid,
•when synthetic properties can become problem-solvers,
•when life-cycle cost savings can be realized, or
•when safety and environmental issues can be enhanced
With the appropriate management strategy, a change to a high-performance product can actually cost considerably less than the equivalent mineral oil product type. Outside of these considerations, somewhere around 165 degrees F represents the point at which you probably should begin to consider the use of synthetics for the sake of lubricant longevity, if not for the sake of reliability.
A 532 BBF is not a cheap engine to build, I know I have a new one waiting to be installed.
I sure in the hell wont be putting some product that has no actual testing and comparison with other products that are comparable.
I want to look at the top 5 BEST lubricants on the market, forget the 18,000 other blends available :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im putting this motor in a 90 mustang weighing around 2800. powerglide. 4.56 gear. mickey thompson 13.5x29.5. The motor is a 532 with 13.2 ish compression. Comp .790- .787 lift. 273 intake 280 exhaust. victor 460 intake. Quick fuel 1150 dominator. p-51 heads


Any suggestions on my motor.
Any guesses on what it will run in the 8th.

Thanks.
 

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with that tight a clearence, if you will actually run that engine, I would feel completely safe running a 20 weight oil.
AMSOIL makes a RACING 20 weight oil that will take the beating.
I also run tight clerarences currently in my 351W .0015 mains and rods
and with a stock volume pump and 20 weight oil.

using 20w50 in that tight an engine will eat up the crank and bearings in short order.

Stick with the thin stuff...



Javier
 

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Main bearing clearance: 0.002-inch

Rod bearing clearance: 0.0015-inch
W0W, Can't believe how long it took someone to ask what your clearances were:eek:. W/those clearances,after breakin I would run a synthetic in the 20w range.
 

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using 20w50 in that tight an engine will eat up the crank and bearings in short order.

Javier
Even with a standard volume pump, pressure would be unecessarily high, but it would not "eat up the bearings in short order," in fact it would not eat up the bearings, period.

Paul
 

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Main bearing clearance: 0.002-inch

Rod bearing clearance: 0.0015-inch
Given the engine application, the engine displacement, the roller cam, the HV pump, the overall build and its presumed power output, I would suggest you install engine bearings which give you an additional thousandth of clearance, thereby bringing your clearances closer to:

Mains = 0.0030"
Rods = 0.0025".

Then you should be able to run just about any oil brand, type, viscosity, etc.

Paul
 

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I talked w/Lake Speed Jr.from Joe Gibbs Racing at the Seminar about bearing clearances and oil viscosities this past weekend. He advised that tight clearances in a race application is quite common these days w/the oil we have these days.Not as big a deal as it used to be.
 

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I use to run VR1, then swithced to Brad Penn. the brad penn was better. but then i finally switched to Schaffers Synthetic. i picked up oil pressure, and i have Never dropped oil pressure towards the end of a run, which i did lose oil pressure with VR1 and Brad Penn. all i know i have had good luck with it, and its Not over priced. just my 2 cents :)
 

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Even with a standard volume pump, pressure would be unecessarily high, but it would not "eat up the bearings in short order," in fact it would not eat up the bearings, period.

Paul
From a few fresh engines that I tore down shortly after assembly I found that 20W50 and .0015 .002 main and rod clearence there was more wear from cold starts than if the engines had .0025/.003 clearences.

Now I am running .0015 rod and mains and using 0W20 racing oil and I am finding good results so far.

Lower oil pressure usually means the oils have less molecules that cause internal friction wich increase horsepower. More pressure means more stress on the pump cam gear and less overall power to the rear tires...



Javier
 
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