What Oil To Use Right After Break In

505 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by PSIG, 17 d ago

GriffinB

I started my engine for the first time on its fresh rebuild and it ran pretty good once I got timing adjusted. I used Lucas SAE 30 break in oil and a FL-1A filter. I’ve been told too use break in oil till 500 miles and then change it and switch to what you want, I was think Shell Rotella 15w-40 T4 as I have access to some at work. I also have oreillys conventional 10w30 I could use that I have spare on hand.

I’m wondering if I could use the T4 now right after cam break in or do I need to use break in oil still as I’d have to order another 5 quarts. It’s pretty much a stock rebuild with a MTF3 from melling and stock valve springs.
Sorry if this has been asked I couldn’t really find a straightforward answer.

Save

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

The Mad Porter

· #2 · 26 d ago

GriffinB said:
I started my engine for the first time on its fresh rebuild and it ran pretty good once I got timing adjusted. I used Lucas SAE 30 break in oil and a FL-1A filter. I’ve been told too use break in oil till 500 miles and then change it and switch to what you want, I was think Shell Rotella 15w-40 T4 as I have access to some at work. I also have oreillys conventional 10w30 I could use that I have spare on hand.

I’m wondering if I could use the T4 now right after cam break in or do I need to use break in oil still as I’d have to order another 5 quarts. It’s pretty much a stock rebuild with a MTF3 from melling and stock valve springs.
Sorry if this has been asked I couldn’t really find a straightforward answer.

Save yourself some headaches and use a gasoline flat tappet hot rod style oil.

No shelf oil with additives
No diesel oils.

No additional additives to proper oils.

Valvoline VR oil is a good choice that is shelf available.

Break in oil should be changed with in a few hundred miles max.
I recommend 100 to 150 to our crate engine clients.

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

GriffinB

Discussion Starter · #3 · 26 d ago (Edited)

The Mad Porter said:
Save yourself some headaches and use a gasoline flat tappet hot rod style oil.

No shelf oil with additives
No diesel oils.

No additional additives to proper oils.

Valvoline VR oil is a good choice that is shelf available.

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

What weight would you recommend, I’m thinking 10w30 conventional. I can get 6 quarts from Amazon for $40 delivered. Do you think I should stick with this for the life of the engine or eventually go to a full synthetic oil either 10w30 or 5w30.

Save

The Mad Porter

· #4 · 26 d ago

GriffinB said:
What weight would you recommend, I’m thinking 10w30 conventional. I can get 6 quarts from Amazon for $40 delivered. Do you think I should stick with this for the life of the engine or eventually go to a full synthetic oil either 10w30 or 5w30.

The lightest weight that keeps your oil pressures where needed.
Depends on clearances and oil pump style.

We typically suggest waiting 2 or 3 oil changes before going to a flat tappet hot rod style synthetic.

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

See less See more

Save

GriffinB

Discussion Starter · #5 · 26 d ago

The Mad Porter said:
The lightest weight that keeps your oil pressures where needed.
Depends on clearances and oil pump style.

We typically suggest waiting 2 or 3 oil changes before going to a flat tappet hot rod style synthetic.

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

Sounds good, I’ll order the VR1 conventional and then switch to a full synthetic VR1 after that.

Save

Mark G

· #6 · 25 d ago

Break in oil should be changed with in a few hundred miles max.
I recommend 100 to 150 to our crate engine clients.

Scotty,

what about an engine for a drag race application? When would you recommend changing the oil after break in?

Save

The Mad Porter

· #7 · 25 d ago

Mark G said:
Break in oil should be changed with in a few hundred miles max.
I recommend 100 to 150 to our crate engine clients.

Scotty,

what about an engine for a drag race application? When would you recommend changing the oil after break in?

Yes after break in.

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine

See less See more

Save

19Fo79rdF250$

· #8 · 18 d ago

GriffinB said:
I started my engine for the first time on its fresh rebuild and it ran pretty good once I got timing adjusted. I used Lucas SAE 30 break in oil and a FL-1A filter. I’ve been told too use break in oil till 500 miles and then change it and switch to what you want, I was think Shell Rotella 15w-40 T4 as I have access to some at work. I also have oreillys conventional 10w30 I could use that I have spare on hand.

I’m wondering if I could use the T4 now right after cam break in or do I need to use break in oil still as I’d have to order another 5 quarts. It’s pretty much a stock rebuild with a MTF3 from melling and stock valve springs.
Sorry if this has been asked I couldn’t really find a straightforward answer.

The lowest ambient temperature where you live should determine the winter value. The highest temperature will determine the viscosity.

Save

PSIG

· #9 · 17 d ago

IMO, oil filters and oil are cheap consumables in an expensive engine. If roller, I only warm to full temp and do a loaded break-in routine to seat the rings. Hard accel/decel at increasing rpm, at least 10. Break-in is done and ring sealing should be optimal for the life of the engine. I shut down and change oil and filter to get the swarf, break-in wear material, little machining dust and chips I missed in clean-assembly

, etc. I get it out right away. Drag or street.

If it's a flat-tappet, I use the same routine, but get the 15-20 minute high-variable idle per mfg spec for cam break-in first, and do I not delay the loaded ring seating immediately after. I and many others have found best break-in, ring sealing, and engine life with a loaded break-in of that type, so that's my go-to for many years, and no "soft" break-in that may never seat the rings properly before the fresh bore cross-hatch is worn down. That's the purpose of the carefully-applied honing. Notice it's the same routine as with expensive racing engines on dynos. Do your thing.

See less See more

Save

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

Top Contributors this Month