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What route would you take to make 750 HP?
November 26 2005 at 11:46 PM
No score for this post OldSchoolRacer (Login OldSchoolRacer)
from IP address 68.77.241.230

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Hi guys, I was trying to figure out a new 460 combo to make 750 FWHP?


I would rather ask some guys who have done it than to buy the wrong parts and waste money.


I would like a engine that would be totally streetable,run on pump gas and be lower rpm and lower maintanance.


I have a standard bore D1VE block but,I would be willing to upgrade to a aftermarket block if needed.


Are these engine perameters I listed possible?


What cubes, what block, what heads/intake/carb, what compression would do these things?

Thanks.....

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Jon Thee
(Login theemudracer)
64.12.117.9 examples
No score for this post November 27 2005, 12:01 AM

http://www.network54.com/Forum/thread?forumid=85220&messageid=1072059801>

Lower the compression 1 point or so and go with this build

http://www.network54.com/Forum/267359/thread/1106939507/last-1112901460/800hp+512ci+TFS+Street+head+combo>...

Jon Thee

This message has been edited by theemudracer from IP address 64.12.117.9 on Nov 27, 2005 12:29 AM




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Scott Jackson
(Login ScottTJackson)
64.113.91.106 how about...
No score for this post November 27 2005, 12:46 AM

it would be easy to get that power for very cheap. In fact, it's probably what I'll end up doing. I have a 514 that I was going to use with two powerstroke diesel turbos. Now that I've found I don't have room for twin turbos, it's gonna need to be a single. Also, you don't need big cubes to get big power with forced induction. SOOOO, with a stock 460 crank and 2 bolt block, you can add a set of H beam rods and cheap 22cc dish TRW forged pistons. With some D3VE factory heads with exhaust porting and stock valve sizes (don't reuse the stock valves) you'll have 8.3:1 compression. Add to that a relatively small cam with wide LSA and a Holset HT3B turbo with 32cm or 36cm exhaust housing and you'd have a low rpm and high hp 460. The HT3B is a diesel turbo but a 460 would have no problem spooling it up. The turbo is good for 850+hp as it has a 76mm inducer making it roughly equal to a T76 in power potential. This way you can use inexpensive heads, valvetrain, block, crank... and have an ultra reliable 750hp. The part you don't want to skimp on is the tune. Get a good fuel system and wideband O2 sensor. Back the timing off to 20* or so and work from there. Blowthrough with a carb is the cheapest way and very effective. Both Edelbrock and Holleys are easy to mod for blowthru use. The Ebrock is limited to 700-750hp due to needle/seat sizes available and the somewhat small thermoquad floats needed to control the needle. But once you get it tuned up, it should be extrememely reliable. Rebuilt HT3B turbos can be had for $250 on ebay. However, don't outbid me if I'm bidding on one! :p Edit: I just realized the cheapie TRW forged dish pistons are for press pin only. Kinda rules out using H beam rods. If you're feeling a bit risky, you could use stock rods and probably be fine if kept below 6000rpm. The other option is Scat I beam "SIR" rods. OR, just get some dished pistons that use a floating pin to use H beam rods. If you want to maybe step it up to 850 or 900hp in the future, H beams with better pistons would be the way to go.

This message has been edited by ScottTJackson from IP address 64.113.91.106 on Nov 27, 2005 1:07 AM
This message has been edited by ScottTJackson from IP address 64.113.91.106 on Nov 27, 2005 12:48 AM




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Jason Pierce
(Login jpierce55)
172.209.13.62 Re: What route would you take to make 750 HP?
No score for this post November 27 2005, 7:53 AM

I suggest a Scat stroker kit from Brian Adams. The cost of a 521 is about the same as a 514. You can go up to a 545 but I was told sometimes there are issues with the factory block and so for ease I went 521.

As for heads aftermarket will be better for 750hp. Many people here love the Trick Flow Streets. I like the look of the BT's. If you don't care to do a few minor mods the John Kaase SCJ's are going to be your best performer and what I imagine most would recomend at 750.

You will need a stud girdle with that block at 750hp.

Use a Victor intake. Opinions on a carb will very by person.

Buy a custom cam. Use somebody like Ed Curtis at FTI. With that power on the street you don't want an out of box cam.

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Charlie S.
(Login DblAdigger)
65.57.243.130 IMHO, if you think you need a halo,
No score for this post November 27 2005, 12:29 PM

what you really need is 4 bolt caps. If you are worried about 4 bolt caps having enough strength,you need an aftermarket block.

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kim
(Login kim524)
70.56.230.19 applause! applause!
No score for this post November 27 2005, 1:01 PM

99.999999999998% of all main cap girdles out on the market are as "USEFUL" as the lifter valley girdle being sold to the small block ford comunity. (All small blocks have a lifter valley girdle, its called an intake manifold)

Uless your talking about an older chrysler style girdle, where someone has gone and incorperated the entire block skirt and pan rail into the thing, it really isnt worth the money. Get a better block, ie, 4 bolt caps, and or aftermarket block.

THe hanging halo's are seat belts in an airline accident. Might save a crank, but in reallity, its just a great place to start looking for the pieces.

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Scott J. AKA the Mad porter !!!
(Login ScottJ429)
131.191.33.129 These days, with a large engine, this is not really too hard to do...
No score for this post November 27 2005, 12:48 PM

I would do it like this:

+ .030" 4.5" stroker combo for 545 inches in a truck block for better piston support at BDC. 2 bolt mains are fine with a stud girdle.

11.0 to 1 static C/R

Ported TFS streets or Kaase P-51's if you might need room to grow in the future.

Victor intake with plenum work.

Holley 950 HP

2" to 2.125" primary headers.

recurved and remanned dura spark distributor.

Comp solid street roller XR292R on a tighter lobe sep for the larger engine. 254/260 @ .05" lift, .670" ish lift. I would also use notched lifters for additional oiling at the cam lobe, roller interface.

yella terra roller rockers.


This combo will make about 750 HP at 6,200 RPM. It will run on pump premium and the street lobes of the comp cam are easier on springs than some of the more agressive rollers with over .700" lift.





Regards,
Scott Johnston / RHP

Complete list of product and services:
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com






http://www.prepaidlegal.com/info/scottjohnston




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Bret Powell
(Login PullinBret)
208.31.189.215 Why not the Ford Racing SCJ heads?
No score for this post November 27 2005, 8:29 PM

You wouldn't recommend them?

PFC Engines 573-793-2177
DTS Dyno and SuperFlow SF600 equipped!

"Pullin For Christ"








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kim
(Login kim524)
70.56.230.19 Some great recomdations already
No score for this post November 27 2005, 1:13 PM

Depends on your desires/limitations. The forced induction route is the easiest. Turbo keeps the RPMs down, the installation clean, and the power is available from off idle to redline.

If your an NA fanatic, big displacement is the answere. Easiest way to make a 750+ HP combo for the street, do a 4.300" stroke stock block. Use something like the BT heads, or Edelbrocks, if a pureist, get some very well ported D0VE iron heads. An A head would be a little overkill for your desires.

Your going to need a custom piston to do a 540/572 with a low compression set up. 72cc combustion chambers is going to require a bit o dish to get the compression down, keeping quench up. Look at the big HP, or small dominator 1000-1050cfm on the appropriate Victor intake.

Should be a nice 10.5 or so to one street engine, that would rip stumps out the ground and move the biggest mass. Never breaking 7200RPM peak for all that power.

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