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Okay so ive got me a fox thats ready to take a BBF. Want it to be a street/strip car. Having trouble deciding what to do with it.

Already have a block, its a D9TE-AB from a 92 f350 i believe. I am in school for machining and have access to anything used in the engine machining process and also have a mechanical engineering degree so being precise with my measurements and thorough with it will not be a problem. ?

I will buy buying all new internals as a piston had broke a skirt (rest of block is perfect, even the cylinder in which it broke surprisingly) so think of me as having a bare block only. Keep in mind im wanting to keep my budget around $5000 for the engine alone, from oil pan to carb (unless efi ?)

Should i go stroker? if so how big?
Forged crank or no?
Pump gas required.
Carb or efi? (Efi will prob kill my budget)
Cast heads and work them myself? Or should i find some aluminum?
Solid or roller?
Junkyard turbo it?

Also have metalworking equipment and welding skills and can make parts if you think its something worth trying, such as sheetmetal intake or exhaust.

Im in no rush to finish this build fast so i do not care how long a specific process takes. Im wanting this car to be different than most others, and bbf seems to be the oddball now with all the mod swaps and sbf builds. Other than brand swapping like an LS based engine which is out of the question ?
 

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466 with tfs street heads with some pistons to put your self in the 10.5 static comp range and a sft cam a good set of rods on a stock crank, 950 carb with a rpm air gap intake and you got your self a handful on the street.

Back it all up with a 28x10.5 tire or a 275/60 radial and a c6 trans with a 3.90 rear gear and a converter around 3500.


You should be able to do this with 5K easy with money to buy a nitrous kit:D
 

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how fast do you want to go?
 

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Okay so ive got me a fox thats ready to take a BBF. Want it to be a street/strip car......Already have a block, its a D9TE-AB .... my budget around $5000 for the engine

Should i go stroker? if so how big?
Forged crank or no?
Pump gas required.
Carb or efi? (Efi will prob kill my budget)
Cast heads and work them myself? Or should i find some aluminum?
Solid or roller?
Junkyard turbo it?
With your $5K budget, assuming you're doing all the machine work yourself (free), you're going to be looking at either a stock displacement engine with budget internals and nice heads, or a stroker with Procomp aluminum heads, used aluminum heads, or reworked factory heads of some sort.

-Budget won't support forged crank
-Carb is the only option within the budget
-Aluminum heads would be best
-Flat tappet is better for street use and more budget friendly


.
 

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466 with tfs street heads with some pistons to put your self in the 10.5 static comp range and a sft cam a good set of rods on a stock crank, 950 carb with a rpm air gap intake and you got your self a handful on the street.

Back it all up with a 28x10.5 tire or a 275/60 radial and a c6 trans with a 3.90 rear gear and a converter around 3500.


You should be able to do this with 5K easy with money to buy a nitrous kit:D
what did this run without the nos?
 

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what did this run without the nos?
This combo went 7.20s at 102 with a 3400lb race weight right off the interstate full interior, power windows , with 10 point cage on a 275/60 all this in a 94 mustang..... it would have went faster
 

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Offset stock crank to 4.15".
Scat 7.1" BBC rods.
Probe pistons. 1.125" compression height.
Total Seal rings.
Big valve stock heads ported as per "The Mad Porters'" web site. Back cut valves and polished combustion chambers.
Custom solid flat tappet cam from an on site vendor.
Victor intake.
950 HP Holly minimum.

Do the heads right, and you should have a good 650 HP with stock cast iron heads and have a short block ready for some high flowing aluminum heads when your budget allows.
 

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Offset stock crank to 4.15".
Scat 7.1" BBC rods.
Probe pistons. 1.125" compression height.
No such piston, although you could use a 7.000 rod with a 1.25 CD piston and a 4.140 stroke crank.

At the end of the day, it's not going to work any better than, or be any more budget friendly than a standard stroker kit using 6.700 or 6.800 rods. And piston selection would be much greater with 6.700/6.800 rods and a 4.15/4.300/4.500 crank.
 

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What I'm working on at the moment is a short deck D1 block (10.30"), a Lunati forged 4.150" crank, a set of GRP 6.8" aluminum rods, basically stock A460 heads with a Diamond domed piston (14.5:1 compression). Haven't decided on a cam yet, probably in the .830"-.850" range. Full fill on the block. 2 bolt bottom end. Sheet metal tunnel ram. 2 1/8" to 2 1/4" stepped headers. This will be a bracket motor for my Dragster. I think that I should be able to make 900ish reliable horses on gas and then later convert to carbed Alky (I like the wide tuning window of Alky).
Rob
 

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No such piston, although you could use a 7.000 rod with a 1.25 CD piston and a 4.140 stroke crank.

At the end of the day, it's not going to work any better than, or be any more budget friendly than a standard stroker kit using 6.700 or 6.800 rods. And piston selection would be much greater with 6.700/6.800 rods and a 4.15/4.300/4.500 crank.
X2
Rob
 

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No such piston, although you could use a 7.000 rod with a 1.25 CD piston and a 4.140 stroke crank.

At the end of the day, it's not going to work any better than, or be any more budget friendly than a standard stroker kit using 6.700 or 6.800 rods. And piston selection would be much greater with 6.700/6.800 rods and a 4.15/4.300/4.500 crank.
Well, the question was, what would you build?

And that is what I would build. The piston is a custom and would cost about 300 to 400 dollars more than a shelf piston and the reason for the longer rod is for a lighter piston and a better pull on the stock heads. Still within the budget. And I do believe it would work better. I don't like 1.5 R/S ratios for a street engine and the above ratio is 1.71. Each to his own.

The OP said he wanted something different and a passenger car headed engine kicking butt might be considered different.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Alright guys thanks for all the input.

Id say im looking for 650ish HP

Would i be cheaper off going the route of buying some trick flow heads and keeping the stock crank? or stroke it and use some iron heads that have been worked?
 

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Alright guys thanks for all the input.

Id say im looking for 650ish HP

Would i be cheaper off going the route of buying some trick flow heads and keeping the stock crank? or stroke it and use some iron heads that have been worked?
For that kind of power, you'll want aluminum heads. It's going to be a pretty ill-mannered high winding engine, and should really have aftermarket rods, which of course is only a crankshaft away from being a stroker. But now you're getting outside the budget again.

Another (more budget friendly) option would be to use iron heads, build it a little more "street friendly", and spray it with a 150 shot.


.
 

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Offset stock crank to 4.15".
Scat 7.1" BBC rods.
Probe pistons. 1.125" compression height.
Total Seal rings.
Big valve stock heads ported as per "The Mad Porters'" web site. Back cut valves and polished combustion chambers.
Custom solid flat tappet cam from an on site vendor.
Victor intake.
950 HP Holly minimum.

Do the heads right, and you should have a good 650 HP with stock cast iron heads and have a short block ready for some high flowing aluminum heads when your budget allows.
my local crank guy wants $500 just to do the crank, cheaper to buy aftermarket imo.. I would do big bore and stock stroke and put the $$ in the heads first..
 

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Does it all have to be new? You say you're not in a hurry so if it were me I'd keep an eye out for a good set of used P51s or SCJs or Trick Flows and a used stroker kit. Slap a custom SFT in and a Victor on top and you should be within the 5k budget.
 
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