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Discussion Starter #1
besides maybe trying to spin faster, is there any way to not make my truck buck like a bull when i mash my throttle??! single cab long bed, 38" tires, im assuming im just **** outta luck
on the wheel hop huh?!
 

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The old slapper bars work pretty good, cal-tracs/slide-a-link type deals work better. You can get a leaf spring vehicle to hook, just takes a bit of tweekin.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well it hooks to much ha, a little burn out never hurt anybody but i cant do one at all without the back tires comin off the ground! oh and the rear end is locked so that contributes to
 

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I used to have an old shortbed F100 with a 5.0 in it. Fun truck, but used to wheel hop BAD. I broke 3 Diffs in it until I finally sat down and figured something out. I tried slapper bars. No better.
I then made brackets for the housing and frame, then mounted a Link bar under the leaf springs. It resembled a four link, with the leaf spring being the upper bar. You have to make the link bar pivot at the front spring eye, and axle housing. Same length as that distance as well. You will need some thick walled tubing and rod ends.( First set I made I bent) and build the frame brackets so they wont twist/bend. I promise wheel hop will be a memory.
I would show you pictures, but that truck is long gone.
I had both slicks and drag radials on it with a 5k launch and zero wheel hop with the bars.
 

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My 69f100 I put 3/4 ton springs and stoped the wheel hop I was having it,it would do it if I pull out and had to get on it.I think we got them out of a 65 3/4 ton or 64 can't remember but it was one of them. now people can't beleave how much I can put in the back with out the bumper draging but it does make for a stiff ride with out about 250# in the back
 

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i'm guessing with 38's you got blocks. Ladder bars, or a home made single bar going from the axle to the frame say 4ft long or so should cure it. if you want some flex still use heims. (I'd use them anyway)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i have 38's yes but no blocks, i just stacked in more leafs. which gave about 5 inch's of lift compared to the 3 inch tall block.
i had a bright idea one day of buying two hiem joints and welded mounts to cross member and the top of my diff. some thick wall tubing from joint to joint.
in theory its impossible for the diff to move?! but i dont no, didnt seem to help i dont think. even though after i thought about it i realized the bottom of the diff COULD still wrap forward as the top was on a pivot.

I DONT NO THATS WHY IM ASKIN YOU GUYS! lol

wet pavement roads are funner then hell with locked rear end and a 460! but on dry roads she wants to hop like a rabbit!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
still got the other block piece though with the rubber on it for when the suspension bottoms out.
 

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Something that might help a little... running dual shocks in front and rear of the axle, angled away from the axle. It will not be a cure all, but will likely help a little. Also make sure that your spring bushings and all suspension components are in good working order.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well... the leaf springs i added are thicker and i cant see them even flexing ever! but they HAVE to be more sturdy than those dumb blocks. and i dont think i shackle bushings are bad so....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXzWngvF0lM&feature=related

this guy has 49" tires and smokes em! why cant do that!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
im not saying your wrong or anything but i dont see how suspension plays a roll in your rear end jumpin up and down? feel free to explain though.
 

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Your Leaf springs are the source of your wheel hop. yeah, they may look strong but they ARE wrapping up under heavy torque. When the tires break loose, the leaf springs unload. This is what you see/feel as wheel hop. The only way to stop it is to stop the leaf springs/axle from "wrapping up" . Leaf springs are made to carry vertical weight.
The truck in the video appeared to have a torque arm or ladder bar set up. very effective at stopping wheel hop. Thats why he can do that and you cant.
Adding a link to the top of the diff wont help as you figured out. It must be located under the leaf springs.
http://www.lightningforceperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=232_457_101_163&products_id=270&zenid=3316364c9435e23d1dd3e86df0ca803a
Above is a kit to give you an idea of what you need to fabricate.
 

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Shocks have always stopped my wheel hop problems. Go purchase some exrta, heavy duty shocks and yes, the suspension is the cause of wheel hop. Or do the link bar / traction bar setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
so in conclusion of all this... if i can stop the axle from moving front to back i'll be in good shape? but up and down is obvioulsy not contributing to the hop.

i know my 99' superduty f250 wheels hops TERRIBLY if i do a reverse burn out. sock tires to.

oh well, hopefully ill fix it someday, somehow
 

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No up and down is not the problem. its axle wrap. like that super duty on 49's you need a bar from the bottom of the axle forward connecting to the frame somewhere near where the cab meets the box. Check out any 4x4 puller truck. They use them too.
 

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so in conclusion of all this... if i can stop the axle from moving front to back i'll be in good shape? but up and down is obvioulsy not contributing to the hop.

i know my 99' superduty f250 wheels hops TERRIBLY if i do a reverse burn out. sock tires to.

oh well, hopefully ill fix it someday, somehow
No, sometimes if you don't have a stiff enough shock the rear axle will bounce like a basketball. The purpose of a shock is to control the spring. You are either wrapping the leaf springs or you don't have enough shock to control those custom leaf springs.
Which if the later is correct you will still have wheel hop even no matter what you do. I have seen complete backhalf, 4-link cars wheel hop from bad shocks in burnouts.
 

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No up and down is not the problem. its axle wrap. like that super duty on 49's you need a bar from the bottom of the axle forward connecting to the frame somewhere near where the cab meets the box. Check out any 4x4 puller truck. They use them too.
You will want to use heim joints up in the front. I don't need them because this is only a puller. And use heavy wall square tubing. Also make sure your spring pearches are not rounded over.


 

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Discussion Starter #20
i was thinking put shock style mounts on axle, both sides, and then run 2 thick wall steel tubes one on each side with hiem joints fornt and rear connecting axle and cross member, or frame.. is it gonnna be worth the 30$ ill have into it? thanks

btw i like the square tube idea under the leafs but i cant imagine your rear suspension works to well huh?!
 
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