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Discussion Starter #1
44" or 60" for a Fox Chassis car.

I don't want a real long wheelie bar sticking out past the back bumper.

The X-brace bars are 60" long, I really like them because you have more space to get a Jack under the back of the car. The other set are 44" with a straight support bar at the wheels, a little less expensive but shorter which I like.

Opinions please :mrgreen:



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Damon I am probably going to get a set of 44's for mine so far I haven't needed them but I figure soon it will be needed so prepair for that now I can put them on and just have the brackets in place just incase :shock: I like wheelies but not as bad as yours.



Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cougar1969 said:
Damon I am probably going to get a set of 44's for mine so far I haven't needed them but I figure soon it will be needed so prepair for that now I can put them on and just have the brackets in place just incase :shock: I like wheelies but not as bad as yours.



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Randy

First time was a Surprise :shock:
Second time was ....... FUN :mrgreen:
Third time was annoying.... Wanted to see how fast it was going to go off the trailer.

I need your mailing address, I'll give you a ring sometime tonight after I'm finished with my daily 'honey-doos' :lol:

Later



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You can buy a pro - sportsman kit from jerry bickel for just under $400 and build a custom length or you can just get the wheel housing kits and wheels and supply your own tubing , rod ends etc. I got 60" with the brace in the top bars the pin / bolt can be removed quickly if you want to raise them higher.
 

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forgot how close the neighbors were at the old place, I love my new house and shop, could have a big get together there....

Those bars only stick out a couple inches past the bumper, looks further in that pic but its not that bad. Again they are there "just in case" as I only get on them a tad, I have um pretty high, again higher than the pic (thats an old pic from like 3 years ago)
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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60 min. shorter is not better. 80" are what mine will be, the last ones I had were 64".

Longer, non spring loaded. Shorter and you may need springs.

Wheelie bars stick out, Unfortunately, its just another pain in the rear you deal with in dragracing. You can get qwik pins at the top to lay them down or take them off for trailer clearance. I had to do this because of the trailer door.
I slide mine under the car once it was loaded, took them off while I was strapping it down.

Get the double adjustable ones with the Rod end on each end of the top bar. That way you won't have to take one side out to raise/lower the bar.
wheelie bars arent just for keeping the car off the bumper, you can use chaulk and let the wheelie bars help you tune the chassis.

Also get the ones that angle the bar into the rear end housing, this adds some strength. Don't get chrome, you'll never keep them clean enough anyway. After one pass they are dirty again. Best to powder coat them.
 
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Damon, go with the 60" bars without the dbl adj spring in the top bars. You won't need them. I had 52" Chris Alston wheelie bars on my 67 Stang & they didn't stick out too far. My 98 has 64" bars & they stick out about 24" to the C/L of the wheels. :D
 

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The longer the better, use round tubing, not that springloaded flat bar junk. With the flat bar they will turn into a S when the car gets on the bars. Our bars are 96" from center of the housing to the center of the wheelie bar wheel.
 
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I tend to agree, I have the comp engineering bars and they are ok, but the others are much better. I will be upgrading before the new motor goes in.
 

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Damon,

I honestly think if you work on the front rear suspension you won't need the wheelie bars. They are a good thing for those surprises but I wouldn't use them as a fix all to keep your car on the ground. If you break one it's almost a guarantee you will go into the wall.

I just wouldn't feel safe riding the bars as far down the track as your car appears it will do as setup now.

IMO
 

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BuddyThomas said:
The longer the better, use round tubing, not that springloaded flat bar junk. With the flat bar they will turn into a S when the car gets on the bars. Our bars are 96" from center of the housing to the center of the wheelie bar wheel.
Mine are the flat type,and have taken alot of force also.Still look and work good,i would'nt call them junk :?
 

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http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/Launching_A_Drag_Car.htm


Wheelie bars do more than keep the car from flipping over backwards they can also be tuned to keep just the right amount of force on the rear tires so the car can be accelerated faster.
Let's say we have a 3000 lb car that does not have wheelie bars. Keeping this very simple, when the car launches and raises the front tires off the ground then there is 3000 lbs on the rear tires (there can actually be more than 3000 lbs but let's keep this simple). This 3000lbs is the most pressure that can be applied to the tires.
If we add wheelie bars and the car launches hard enough so the car rests on the wheelie bars for a 100 ft then some of the 3000 pounds has to be "shared" by the wheelie bars. So, instead of 3000 lbs on the tires there may now be 2650 lbs on the tires and 350lbs is being "stollen" by the wheelie bars.

The amount of weight on the rear tires can change depending on the LENGTH of the wheelie bars. A LONGER wheelie bar will remove LESS weight from the rear tires while a SHORTER wheelie bar removes MORE weight from the rear tires.
Depending on the car, switching from a 45" long wheelie bar to a 60" long wheelie bar can keep around 100lbs on the rear tires. So if our car in the above example started with 45" long wheelie bars and we switched to 60" long wheelie bars then we may have went from 2650lbs to 2750lbs of pressure on the rear tires. This can be better than adding an extra 100lbs of weight to the car just to get the car to hook.

*The 100 lbs is just an example and can be a lot less or a lot more since it depends on the car and how it launches.
 

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Round tube wheelie bars can be either non spring or the spring type. The older style bars made of round tubing & flat aluminum strip have their place, but there are limitations. This type really needs to be spring loaded. And as mentioned the aluminum strip can bend/bow around some, especially in a longer bar set.

Full chassis car minum wheelie bar length (made of 'moly tubing) no less than 70". The max length kinda depends on [A] your class rules, how much usuable power you have at launch, and [C] how violent you setup your suspension. The longer the bar the more likely it will flex and the less likely it will unload the slicks for a given power/suspension combo.

Which style bar for a back-half car can be a crap shoot. Some back half cars just need to wheel stand more than others to work correctly. This can be especially true if they have a higher C/G, or have a violent suspension that can't be calmed down enough. In some of these cases a spring loaded type bar might actually work better that one without a spring.

In either case, cars that need wheelie bars need double adjustable shocks. The added compression (bump) valving control gives you a bigger adjustment window to work with if the wheelie bar happens to unload the slicks. And dual wheel bars are better than a single wheel bar. You loose too much pre-load adjustability with the single wheel bar. Never chrome plate any 'moly suspension component because the chroming process can cause Hydrogen embrittlement, and part failure.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yesterday I spoke with Eric at No Limit Race Cars. I'm leaning towards the 60" round tube bars with the X-brace. However they will have to be removable in order to get the car on the trailer.

Thanks for all the input guys, I'm getting a crash coarse in Wheelie Bar 101 :p

For those that haven't seen the video, maybe this will help decide on wheelie bars. The car doesn't come straight up, it kind of rolls out and then keeps coming up. The fornt wheels turn a few times at first so it's going OUT and then coming up.






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