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bruno said:
WOW ----- :shock: you are lucky it didnt come apart on the track ........
X2 on that one... But then again, it's not a Chevy... :lol: :lol: :lol:
What do you suppose caused it to break like that...? Looks like it may have been dropped or had fallen and landed directly on that corner and maybe had a stress crack as a result...
Either way not good... Glad you caught it...


Doug... 8)
 

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What was that motor? I see it has a hatchet weight on it.Was it balnced ? That looks like a severe balance problem may have contributed to it. I've never seen a block break like that. When I 1st started running these 385 engines years ago, I didn't realize there was an internal and external balance on them. If you didn't have it balanced for the flywheel and hatchet weight ,you might look into it? Good luck :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It was a 150 shot and i sprayed that motor for over two years steady shifting at 7k and crossing the line at 7k bracket racing with a 150 shot the only one in the pro class out of about 70 guys that uses nos its one of the weaker 302 blocks an 86 an bored .060 to a 311 it was from cap walk and stress they say later 302s have a 500hp limit and thats pushin it the mains finaly break it had cracks from 4 cam bearing journals up to the main caps. it was still runnin like a raped ape i got down to 3 cars that nite even won the round when it cracked i didnt know no loss of power or pressure my buddy came and told me it smoked all the way down it was 12:40am so we popped the hood and found a crack about a 1" above the oil pan rail starting from the timing cover bolt hole back and it sprayed oil on the headers so i called quits. for the next month i still drove it back and forth to the grocery store about a mile away never stepped on it just putted still good oil pressure and no water loss and no oil leaks (low rpm i guess) then one day started it up for a store trip again and no oil pressure so i shut it off fast and pulled it apart the first thing i saw was the front main bearing pushed out rubbin the timing chain it never hurt the crank tho the oil was still clean and everything that was a year ago july 20 thats when i put the 84 with the big block toghether and got hooked on fat blocks as the guys at the track say but today the 306" i just finished last nite is going in for more nos abuse its been a long time not using it after 6 years of racing with it on diffrent 302s now i gotta get some bigger nads and spray the big boy. wow that was like writing a book.
 

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Thats a pretty common problem on SBF's with Stock Blocks, I've seen them completly Split in Half down the lifter valley on a few occasions. Time to Either Step up to a good block or figure on a routine block change !!! :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Now i know what he meant i looked it up it does kinda look like that but its just part of the dampner snout. O and for the record i got the nads to spray the big block once a nitrous junkie always a nitrous junkie i got sumthing in store for the 09 bash and i will be there to bash!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ive seen pictures of that split in half and i do have a rountine when they bust i thro em in the gutter and pop in another (he he) im down to 6 blocks now quite a few were givin to me over the years this new one is a 68 .030 so its stronger than the late 80s blocks (knock on wood).
 

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once we passed the 500 hp n/a mark we started splitting blocks, its a common thing. We bought a boss 302 race block from Lem just for this reason.
 

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Those little Ford blocks just don't have much in the way of main webbing or cylinder walls they were designed to be a small, light little engine. Overall I think Ford did a great job with those engines and they just never imagined they would ever make the power that they do today.

I'm not so sure about the older blocks either but they do look SLIGHTLY beefier. Don't count on them having much cylinder wall thickness. The thinnest block I've ever sonic tested was a 65 289 block bored .040. It only had .040 left in some areas!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Im debating on using a main girdle (dont know if it will help) have to take off the pan before it goes in which is no big deal but the girdle i bought i think sucks figures it was the cheapest i could find its a prw and was 113 bucks i needed to clearance the girdle,oil pump,cut the one stud down and it looked like the top of the main caps because the front main stud closest to the pump hits the nut against the pump i even put in a short stud so that the threds just come flush to the top of the nut and the nut still hits the pump cause the girdles up so high to clear the caps. My machine shop guy told me a while back which girdle to stay away from it was either the type i have that bolts down the caps all as one with the girdle or the type that uses step studs or bolts that you torque the caps down first then put the girdle over the studs and torque that with more nuts cant remember which? you guys got any input on girdles? i had some people say they only help keep it from spittin parts all over the track and dont help cap walk.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So girdles aint really worth it? and is that red block you have a pic of in the other post the boss 302? one day im gonna spring for the race block my future plans for my old 76 cobra two are a 427 and up stroker with the kaase heads i bought years ago but for now its spray away on the stockers the only problem i have now is when i start thinking about the parts i think why not spend it on big block stroker parts and heads instead .I would've never thought a year and a half ago i would have a car that ran 10.50s na with a small cam stock ported factory heads and a 11"converter that can only stall up to 14 to1500 max my brother always told me big blocks are the only way to go and i kept saying bullcrap well now i know the meaning theirs no replacement for displacement.
 

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In my opinion, (and also in many others who are just keeping their mouths shut right now) that what the girdle does is make for more parts that need picking up when the oil pan fails. Just get a good block. You could always step up to a 351W and some good caps. Stroke it out to a 408 and have a reasonable priced small block that should bolt in without much difficulty. Bet it'll stall that converter the way it's supposed to be stalled too. Just an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Good thing then cause i didnt put the girdle in im sending it back and the 11" converter is whats in my 84 mustang with the 472 that ran a best of 10.57 my 76 cobra 2 has a 9"custom nos converter from lenny at ultimate its been 10.85 with a 150 shot and 11.94 on motor.
 

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I've heard of the SBF doing that, I never made enough power with one of them to hurt them. I went to a BBf back in the mid 80's .And really just started making much power in the late 90's I never had enough cash to build anything that'd run decent until the kids got grown.That's wild to see one self destruct like that :wink: I can hardly wait for the 2009 bash to meet some more of you fine fellow ford lovers :wink: :lol:
 
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