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Hi all thanks for opening the door to this forum,I really need some advice ,some pointers what to look at next,I bought a 76 Lincoln continental it has the 460 V8,I purchased it sight unseen was told it starts easy and runs good but has a fuel leak and needs a new starter solenoid ,it arrived on a transporter I started it verys easily and drove it onto my property,I fixed the fuel leak and started it up again ,I let it warm up to see if it would overheat,it didn't ,it got up to temp ,I then gave it a few revs and it sounded really nice and smooth,it then cut out ,I thought maybe I'd sucked some gunge up the fuel line or the carb got blocked ,the car had been sitting for a couple of years ,the carb was good ,I had it rebuilt by a reputable shop,,I bolted it back on and the engine would barely run ,coughing and spluttering backfiring sounds like a tractor running on bad diesel,so far I've lines up the timing mark with the number one position on the distributor,I've checked the tappets and pulled the push rods to check for damage checked all the leads and plugs,everything was as it should be ,it's almost like there's a ghost in the machine,the engine is a stock motor with a stock motorcraft carb,I'm at a loss what to try next,it ran fine and then barely starts and sounds like the timing is out ,but it isn't...?any advice will be looked at and checked ..help
 

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Hello and welcome,
Few things to consider, the car is 45 years old and will need a thorough going over. I would start by pulling the fuel tank and looking inside, you will be amazed at the rust and sediment hiding there. Tanks are available, some choose to have them dipped and use por 15. I chose the new tank/sending unit. from there blow out the fuel lines, replace the filter, and I would recommend replacing the fuel pump as well. The stock carb is just OK, if budget allows get a Holley 600. Next I would replace all spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. I believe your car has the Ford electronic ignition which is a good system, however the control box is a known problem child and can cause the symptoms you describe (my money is on the fuel system mainly)

How many miles are on the car? Another thing to consider is the timing chain and gears, your car I think has the timing set that retards the cam timing by either 4 or 8 degrees (someone will correct me if I'm wrong) Buy a timing set for an early 460 engine 68-71 referred to as a strait up set, that will improve performance a good bit and get rid of a potential failure point. Those old timing sets have nylon teeth and heat and old age will cause failure.

Doing all the above will give you a good baseline to start from.

Dan
 

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A few more things to consider, change all the fluids including oil, trans, differential. Check all the fuses, look real close at the wiring harnesses under the hood especially as it gets brittle with age and heat, and, whatever "great ideas" previous owners did to it to "fix" some gremlin. Compression test while you are replacing the spark plugs will tell you a bunch about the health of the engine.
 
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Aside from general stuff you are not asking about, you have three spots to look at that will cause a fuel starvation: tank lines, fuel filter, fuel pump.

It seems fairly apperent one of those has an issue, likely priming enough over time but not enough to feed on demand. You can check by pulling one of the plugs after it dies. I expect you will find a dry plug.

Failing that, your carb may not have been reset to your original sertings:
Did you record your carb screw settings before you sent it to the shop? Did the shop record your settings?

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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This may sound stupid, but have you tried loosening the gas cap before you fire it up and leave it loose? It sounds a lil bit like the old fuel leak was allowing the system to vent enough to keep it from getting air locked as older systems are prone to to but when you fixed it now it can't breathe and is airlocked. I seem to remember several older Ford's used to be really bad for that. Would love to know if this fixes it...
 

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This may sound stupid, but have you tried loosening the gas cap before you fire it up and leave it loose? It sounds a lil bit like the old fuel leak was allowing the system to vent enough to keep it from getting air locked as older systems are prone to to but when you fixed it now it can't breathe and is airlocked. I seem to remember several older Ford's used to be really bad for that. Would love to know if this fixes it...
I will give it a try and let you know thanks for the pointer
 

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Aside from general stuff you are not asking about, you have three spots to look at that will cause a fuel starvation: tank lines, fuel filter, fuel pump.

It seems fairly apperent one of those has an issue, likely priming enough over time but not enough to feed on demand. You can check by pulling one of the plugs after it dies. I expect you will find a dry plug.

Failing that, your carb may not have been reset to your original sertings:
Did you record your carb screw settings before you sent it to the shop? Did the shop record your settings?

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
Hi thanks for your response,I should add I am coming back to these v8s after a break of 36 years,life got in the way so I'm a bit rusty,the car has a new tank fitted,fuel lines were blown through,it has a mechanical fuel pump,it pumps like a fire engine ..!,supply to carb is good,now when you talk of carb settings,no I didn't ,this is a dark area for me I will need to educate myself but at a guess I would expect the shop that did the carb rebuild would have done this ,I will check back with them
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hello and welcome,
Few things to consider, the car is 45 years old and will need a thorough going over. I would start by pulling the fuel tank and looking inside, you will be amazed at the rust and sediment hiding there. Tanks are available, some choose to have them dipped and use por 15. I chose the new tank/sending unit. from there blow out the fuel lines, replace the filter, and I would recommend replacing the fuel pump as well. The stock carb is just OK, if budget allows get a Holley 600. Next I would replace all spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. I believe your car has the Ford electronic ignition which is a good system, however the control box is a known problem child and can cause the symptoms you describe (my money is on the fuel system mainly)

How many miles are on the car? Another thing to consider is the timing chain and gears, your car I think has the timing set that retards the cam timing by either 4 or 8 degrees (someone will correct me if I'm wrong) Buy a timing set for an early 460 engine 68-71 referred to as a strait up set, that will improve performance a good bit and get rid of a potential failure point. Those old timing sets have nylon teeth and heat and old age will cause failure.

Doing all the above will give you a good baseline to start from.

Dan
Hi Dan thanks for the reply,new tank and sender fitted,lines blown through new filter,old mechanical pump but pumps like a fire engine,good supply to carb,so definitely not fuel,I will read up on the ignition control box next,I wanted to get it running as it was and then probably change the timing gearing and inlet manifold new carb and exhaust in the summer as I only have a semi open car port to work in and it's cold here...!
 

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Go back to what you changed when it run like garbage. The carb. Sorry, but a "reputable shop" doesn't mean they know what they're doing. Especially since carbs went away 35 years ago and it's an American carb. You'll find the more you drive it the more stuff that'll go wrong. Especially the brake system. Trans will be next. The rubber seals get old, dry out and fail.
 

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Another area on these old Lincolns is vacuum hoses, I removed all the vacuum lines for the door locks, headlight doors, cruise control, all of it. I don't mind using a key for the locks and the headlight doors I bought electric actuators for ( to be installed this spring ) I would also suggest disconnecting all vacuum lines including brake booster, leave the PCV connected. Plug the main source then try starting the car. This will eliminate any of the vacuum leaks associated with those items. See how it runs. If that cures your problem or at least improves it you will have fixed a major source of problems. You can then start connecting vacuum powered things one at a time starting with the brake booster first, you will find what was leaking, tedious but these cars have allot of places for problems, and I agree with dacofa above about some of the "reputable carb companies" these days, they are out there but not many
 
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Whenever dealing with a "mystery ailment" like one of these, it's best to remember and always go back to your simple troubleshooting steps.. KISS... Keep It Simple Stupid.. that's what I was tought a long time ago by an old mechanic and it's worked for me so far... Try the easiest things first then go from there.. I agree w the vacuum issues, a smoke machine may help with this as well, (look it up on YouTube, lots of ppl have how-to's there) and a vacuum guage is always handy to have when troubleshooting.. if you've got any leaks or it's jumped time, you'll show a low vacuum. Once again, YouTube or the interwebs will help w guides on how-to's on using a vacuum guages.. btw... Have you popped the gas cap loose and tried it yet? Just curious.... Oh and btw... Best way to adjust that rebuilt carb?? Use a vacuum guage...
 

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Another area on these old Lincolns is vacuum hoses, I removed all the vacuum lines for the door locks, headlight doors, cruise control, all of it. I don't mind using a key for the locks and the headlight doors I bought electric actuators for ( to be installed this spring ) I would also suggest disconnecting all vacuum lines including brake booster, leave the PCV connected. Plug the main source then try starting the car. This will eliminate any of the vacuum leaks associated with those items. See how it runs. If that cures your problem or at least improves it you will have fixed a major source of problems. You can then start connecting vacuum powered things one at a time starting with the brake booster first, you will find what was leaking, tedious but these cars have allot of places for problems, and I agree with dacofa above about some of the "reputable carb companies" these days, they are out there but not many
Thanks,will try the vac hoses ,the shop I used for the carb
Only works on American carbs /engines but yeah I can't be certain till I find the problem
 

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Whenever dealing with a "mystery ailment" like one of these, it's best to remember and always go back to your simple troubleshooting steps.. KISS... Keep It Simple Stupid.. that's what I was tought a long time ago by an old mechanic and it's worked for me so far... Try the easiest things first then go from there.. I agree w the vacuum issues, a smoke machine may help with this as well, (look it up on YouTube, lots of ppl have how-to's there) and a vacuum guage is always handy to have when troubleshooting.. if you've got any leaks or it's jumped time, you'll show a low vacuum. Once again, YouTube or the interwebs will help w guides on how-to's on using a vacuum guages.. btw... Have you popped the gas cap loose and tried it yet? Just curious.... Oh and btw... Best way to adjust that rebuilt carb?? Use a vacuum guage...
Hi,yeah popped the fuel cap ,no change,if it's vac problems why would it run so nice and then stop as if someone had thrown a switch,that's what puzzles me,I'm thinking I should get a new ignition control module
 

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Check my post no7 on "85 460 that randomly dies" that may be it if it's ignition related??
 

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Check my post no7 on "85 460 that randomly dies" that may be it if it's ignition related??
We still have no confirmation on the carb settings, if they were originally recorded and returned, randomly set, or set to the original carb configuration.

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I would agree with many here. If it was running well and then the carb was rebuilt and now it it's worse it was probably rebuilt wrong or it is tuned wrong. The rebuild part is tricky because it could be a hundred different things. The tuning part would be where I would start. Make sure the vacuum system is hocked up correctly and not leaking. Then follow an initial tuning guide that will help you setup the carb so that when you start it it won't run well but it should run well enough to make your final adjustments.

In general you want to try to eliminate variables until you find the problem. Removing and rebuilding the carb likely added a bunch of new variables to deal with. It could be a vacuum hose in the wrong spot, it could be the seal between the carb and manifold, it could be way out of tune, it could have a part missing in the rebuild, etc etc unfortunately. Or it could be some other problem that has nothing to do with the carb but that is where I would start.
 
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