Hello, first post long time lurker.
I'm putting together a 68 460 for a rat rod build.
I bought the engine from a guy parting out a Continental. Supposed to be low mileage ect just rusted out. First engine build for me so he volunteered to help me do a basic low buck rebuild of the bottom end if I bought the parts.
We got the bottom end together and I'm taking the heads to a shop in Clearwater to be rebuilt (couple of valve stems had wear on tips)

Specs are as follows:
Stock bottom end 1968 replacement pistons ect. Did upgrade to arp main studs and arp rod bolts.
Howards roller cam 240705-10 based on a call to Howard's
Heads are stock so far other than the dual valve springs that howards recommended and a set of PRW roller rockers.
I have a wieand stealth intake and 750 demon carb

My first questions are:
What studs to buy for heads? (factory studs are 3/8 need 7/16 for rockers) I see different lengths listed.
Do I need guideplates?
What pushrods? I have pushrod length checker but will wait till heads are on.
I know it's a can of worms but what break-in oil/ additives should I order?
Any guesses on hp/torque?
Car will be running a C6 from a 76 Lincoln and an 8.8 with 3.73 gears from a 2000 explorer
Thanks View attachment 97708 View attachment 97708

With unported heads 400 to 420 hp.

You will need rocker studs and guide-plates as well as hardened push rods.
Proper springs and pc seals with guides topped for seal to retainer clearance.

With proper port work our crate engines with a similar hydraulic flat tappet cam make 450 to 460 hp.

Your distributor will require a melonized steel gear.

We use high ZDDP oil even in roller engines to help with dizzy drive gear wear.

You will need a properly curved distributor as well as a mild stall convertor of about 2500 if using a C6






Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Parkland Auto Machine | Tacoma WA

 

With unported heads 400 to 420 hp.

You will need rocker studs and guide-plates as well as hardened push rods.
Proper springs and pc seals with guides topped for seal to retainer clearance.

Would you happen to know what the correct length on studs should be?
Do you have a recommendation on which guide plates?


With proper port work our crate engines with a similar hydraulic flat tappet cam make 450 to 460 hp.

Your distributor will require a melonized steel gear.
Good to know!

We use high ZDDP oil even in roller engines to help with dizzy drive gear wear.
Do you have weight preference? 10w30?

You will need a properly curved distributor as well as a mild stall convertor of about 2500 if using a C6
I already have a HEI dizzy and will verify the curve once running unless someone can chime in with a baseline.
Planning on using the stock converter from the '76 C6. Basically trying to get it running and driving, and then improve the weak points. Budget doesn't allow doing everything at once.

Thanks

 

Are you using the original 1968 crankshaft ? Verify crankshaft pilot size for converter. If you have access to the original converter measure that. Stealth intake may not be best for your application, but it will work.

 

Factory rocker arm studs are 3/8" top, 7/16" bottom, so the PRW ones will probably be a 7/16" rocker. If you still have the crank available for viewing, look on the front counterweight for a stamping number/letter. Post or picture that and we can tell you what converter snot size it is. Old one is always the easiest way.

 

Yes, the stock studs are 3/8 on top. I will need the 7/16. I see multiple lengths for sale, BBC ect. Any idea which ones work with the roller rockers? Tons of research on my end but usually answers come from people that are machining newer heads for studs so heights vary.

I'm using the stock 1968 crank thats internally balanced so no counterweight, I have the original transmission and associated parts. I also have a complete (D3heads) supposed to be running 1976 Lincoln 460 drivetrain that I used for the mock-up in my build. Just happened onto this 68 drivetrain. Lower miles and better compression stock so I read.
Planning on using the 76 transmission due to fact I already had a driveshaft made to fit my car and the 68 trans has a different output with a double cardan u joint setup and the bell housing is slightly different.

 

This is the 76 trans

 

This is the 68

 

68 motor

 

The 68 crank will require the convertor with the FE sized pilot. 1.850" not the later small block pilot.








Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Log into Facebook

 

I'm in Florida and parts rust within minutes. I took the timing set out of the box 2 days ago.
Heads and engine are 1968
Heads are currently at the machine shop.
I "helped" put the engine together last week.
It's by no means a full professional rebuild.
More of a throw it together and make it run. Kinda like the first engine you put together.
Car will see highway speeds and occasional burnout.
Used stock size rings and bearings, clearances are within factory specs with the new parts. I watched them being checked.

Timing set isn't bolted in yet because the cam has a bigger bolt size, still looking for the correct fuel pump concentric that fits the bigger bolt. Tried drilling it but obviously it's hardened so no luck.

I'll keep posting back with progress.
Here's the basic mockup

 

I'm in Florida and parts rust within minutes. I took the timing set out of the box 2 days ago.
Heads and engine are 1968
Heads are currently at the machine shop.
I "helped" put the engine together last week.
It's by no means a full professional rebuild.
More of a throw it together and make it run. Kinda like the first engine you put together.
Car will see highway speeds and occasional burnout.
Used stock size rings and bearings, clearances are within factory specs with the new parts. I watched them being checked.

Timing set isn't bolted in yet because the cam has a bigger bolt size, still looking for the correct fuel pump concentric that fits the bigger bolt. Tried drilling it but obviously it's hardened so no luck.

I'll keep posting back with progress.
Here's the basic mockup View attachment 97748

See’n it’s a rat rod, shouldn’t it be correct to take a rat tail file to the fuel pump eccentric hole?

 

I'll add that the 1968 Lincoln Continental that this engine came from was onsite, I actually had him pull the trans for me before it got scrapped. It was still in the car. Engine still had 1968 bearings etc and didn't have much wear. Under valve covers was actually pretty clean for being close to 60 years old. Guessing it was a rust belt car because the floor and lower of the car was about gone.
I appreciate all the comments and am using the advice.

 

Check the original trans's converter snub size. should be a 1 7/8". You have to get that size new converter snub size even with a 76 trans (1 3/8" snub) that mate it to the crank/engine.

 

Thanks, do you foresee an issue with just using the 68 convertor in the 76 trans? I know it was recommended to get a higher stall speed with my cam choice but what are potential issues with using the old parts for now?

 

The converter/trans isn't the issue. Converter to engine crankshaft is the issue. Snub size to crank. 1 3/8" 70+ yrs, 1 7/8" 68-70 yrs. But yes, it will fit/work. I wouldn't use an old converter on a new more beefer setup. Trust me, you'll end up pulling it apart sooner or later. Easier now. "pay me now, or pay me more later".

 

Thanks, I'll make sure to use the 68 convertor for now. I already have all new seals for the trans and hopefully it works good. If not it's easy to pull with my setup. Good information to know if I have to order a new convertor.

 

Been awhile since an update. Finally got the heads back from the machine shop and engine finish assembled. Went to put new seals in the old old transmission hoping to save some $$ ,pulled the pan and it was full of aluminum shavings so as recommended I had it rebuilt and ordered a new torque converter with a higher stall speed and the correct pilot for the 68 crank. Hopefully first start in the next couple weeks!

 

We demand a video of it running or a link to it!!! Please?? 🥺 😹

 

Here is the request for a video of first running. I started it and ran it for the break in process. This is right after.

 

Engine is too pretty, it should look like the mockup. Amazing paint job, looks like a real rust hole in the body next to the header collector.😉

 

I'll get a video of it running, the engine paint turned out good. I used Seymour paint from Amazon. Mustang blue. Best spray paint I've ever used, flowed nice with no runs. You need a mask though it's strong!
Body work is next. The whole bottom of the body needs rust repair.

 

Basically the body is still in mock-up phase. Just bolted on so I can yard test drive it. Spent the time off for the holidays doing enough wiring and plumbing to make it drive. Then the body will come back off for sandblasting, floors, roof, glass, ect

 

I added a video above.
Motor sounds good! Working on getting the timing right and the carb tuned correctly now. This video was taken without any adjustments from bolting the Demon 750 carb on out of the box and setting the initial timing at about 10°

I appreciate any advice from the experts on setting the timing. I took it down the road for a little shakedown and I think it has some spark knock, running 92 octane.
Only got it up to 30-40 mph before battery bounced loose and had to idle home.
Fyi I'm using a hei style dizzy and was having a hard time seeing the timing marks on the damper.

Running about 75lbs of oil pressure at 2k rpm. Put it back in the garage and later that night a friend came over and wanted to hear it run. Right at cold startup it blew the seal on the filter spraying him and the garage with oil and dumping a couple quarts on my new concrete, ugh. I'm hoping I didn't have it tight or the heat cycle loosened it? It had been started 5-6 times with no leaks.

 

Best thing that'll help get the timing and the carb set right is a vacuum guage.. Once you get one of these and start learning how to use it, you'll find it's one of the best tools in your arsenal for getting better performance out of your engine.. Oh and borrow some fingernail polish from your better half. Use one colour on TDC, another one on 12 Deg, another one on 14 Deg... And use White chalk on the pointer so you can see it all a lot clearer...

 

I replaced the oil filter today, and same thing happened. Blew the filter gasket at startup. This time I noticed the filter was bulged too.

Dropped the pan and pulled the pump. It was a new melling high volume. Inside looks clean but pressure valve plunger is stuck. Removed the cotter pin and can't get the valve out.
I ordered a standard volume replacement.
I'll update.

 

Unfortunately manufacturing defects happen….at least it didn’t happen whilst on the road.

 

Thanks for sharing all of the photos, looks like a neat project!

Bad luck on the oil pump, items to check before installing on the next go-round.

As for your question on timing, it sounds like you need to confirm how your distributor is setup- how much advance is the mechanical giving you vs. how much initial are you running. The timing light (along with clear, easy to see marks and confirmed '0' with TDC on your timing marks) will help you figure out where things are at.

 

I bought a better timing light that has the adjustable knob, and a vacuum gauge. The damper has a good zero mark but hard to see the other marks while running. Hopefully the new light makes it easier.
Gonna try setting initial at best vacuum and easy starting then work on the total by adjusting the springs if necessary. Will probably have to adjust the vacuum advance too. With my cam and engine combo any guesses on what initial and max should be?

The new pump is getting disassembled and cleaned before installing.

 

Don't forget the fingernail polish!!!

 

Used a silver paint pen to mark 0°, didn't follow the idea of marking the other ones? Please elaborate. As soon as I get the oil pump in I'll be using my new adjustable timing light so I should be able to dial in any degree and be looking at the zero.

 

Use like a red one on the 12deg mark and a blue one on the 14deg mark.. ect, just to make it easier to find the marks you need to find...

 

With his adjustable timing light all he really needs is the 0. Dial/add 12* on the timing light, set it to 0 on the balancer with the distributor and wala all done.

 

Thanks for all the replies,
Little update and more questions.
Installed the new oil pump, everything works good now without blowing oil filters so moved into the timing.

I set the initial timing based on a little before tdc, the motor starts almost instantly. Using my new timing light the timing is jumping all over and is reading average of 60° at idle, revving it doesn't seem to make a difference? Pulled the cap to look at the mechanical advance and it advances with barely any effort so I ordered the moroso recurve kit and set it up with the middle weight springs to try. Definitely has more resistance to advancement now. Haven't started it yet, because I'm now worried about the gear being incorrect for a roller cam.
I'm using a cheap HEI distributor from speedway part #2896506-BLK
Description says it has a steel gear
Other concern is finding the correct gear?
Any thoughts?

 

Thanks for all the replies,
Little update and more questions.
Installed the new oil pump, everything works good now without blowing oil filters so moved into the timing.

I set the initial timing based on a little before tdc, the motor starts almost instantly. Using my new timing light the timing is jumping all over and is reading average of 60° at idle, revving it doesn't seem to make a difference? Pulled the cap to look at the mechanical advance and it advances with barely any effort so I ordered the moroso recurve kit and set it up with the middle weight springs to try. Definitely has more resistance to advancement now. Haven't started it yet, because I'm now worried about the gear being incorrect for a roller cam.
I'm using a cheap HEI distributor from speedway part #2896506-BLK
Description says it has a steel gear
Other concern is finding the correct gear?
Any thoughts? View attachment 98466

The gear pictured is a mild steel gear suitable for use on a flat tappet cam.

You need a MELONIZED steel gear. 85813 MSD

https://autosalesinc.pxf.io/c/40473...arts/msd-85813?srsltid=AfmBOopbB0PUAc6R0Cd1GNggR1vsRd6FKo5f-L83TQ9kkozQ5DjQ2aL_

Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
ParklandAutoMachine.com
R-H-P.biz
"Parkland Performance Auto Machine" Formerly RHP
(253)-988-6648
Log into Facebook