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572 P-51 Pump Gas Street Engine

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48K views 57 replies 22 participants last post by  TorinoGT  
#1 ·
Here is my BF Evans / Jet Boat Bob built 572 pump gas street engine... to be installed in my 1970 Torino GT

A460 Block (4.5 bore)
Scat Forged crank (4.5 stroke)
Scat Forged H-Beams
Diamond Forged dish pistons (10.6:1)
P-51 out of the box (Ti retainers, standard P51 valves)
Full solid roller, custom grind roller cam, FRPP roller rockers
Jomar stud girdle
MSD 351w distributor w/ bronze 460 gear.
FRPP alum. water pump
FRPP t. chain set .
Kaase oil pump
FRPP A521 damper
ARP head sud kit
FRPP victor style intake
QFT 1050 Dominator
Jomar power cone spacer

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A huge thanks to Lem Evans for his *exceptional* customer service (and hospitality). I sent an email to Lem asking about building an engine for me. I got a CALL back within an hour! Lem took the time to talk to me about my goals, worked out some of my questions on unknowns... came back to me in a few days time with a price quote... and after a few changes, ADDITIONS and modifications came within dollars of his original quote... NO hidden suprises.

Big thanks for a job well done to Jet Boat Bob, super nice guy beautifull job on the build!... and Mike from Automotive Machine & Perf for the dyno session and help packing the big block for the long rige home!

Shane
 
#3 ·
Keep in mind this is NOT a max effort build. this engine was built as a 100% street deal, on pump gas... so compression is relatively low at 10.x:1... not an overly agressive cam profile... and the "smaller" 1050 carb... im sure it would make more power with more carb... but I wassnt looking for a specific number at a high RPM... as a street car, its a rare time it will spin past 5000... and likely NEVER north of 7000rpms... thats why it really meant nothing to me if it made a million horse at 7500... i was VERY happy to see the 749 at 6100... and more importantly the torque... over 700 ft lbs at 4200... that aught to help move this heavy beast!

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chassis will be done over the winter

Shane
 
W
#8 ·
nice build..... I have a 71 gt also. there is a difference between a pump gas motor and a pump gas street motor...... that is why I ask about the cam and carb. I see builds that are "pump gas" but have near .800 valve lift with 285+ at .050 roller cams.....I like to refer to these as "pump gas bracket motors". what are the plans for the chassis?

wayne
 
#12 ·
fast reply



lem,thanks for the fast reply!i see that he used a quick fuel 1050,what hi speed air bleeds were in that carb?i am haveing an issue with tunning on a 1050 and the carb guy put 23 in the hi speed,and 75 low speed,it is an 8082-2,it it runs fat,around 11.5-11.9 afr over 2000 rpm.dan.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Well its all *FINALLY* together! took some fab work to get it all together. Driver side valve cover needed to be notched to fit under the master cyclinder (NON power brakes too). Front engine dress had to be modified slightly (the P51 heads have very shallow holes where the brackets bolt into, which caused some issues for the power steering pump). had to do an entire fuel system, as the old engine had a mechanical pump (and fuel lines too small) used -10 braided line and a mallory fuel log for a full return style system. (man is that mallory pump LOUD!) had to do some mods to the front bench seat to fit the shifter for the reverse pattern manual C6. it still needs some tuning (carb, and shifter)... and need to modify a flat hood, with a 429boss style scoop.

but its officially a runner... and will be out on Woodward tomorrow and sat. definately fun! MUCH faster than my old iron head 466!


Again I want to thank Lem Evans & Jet Boat Bob (BF Evans Ford), Joel & Shawn (Joels on Joy trans shop, Detroit), Lenny (Ultimate Converter Concepts) for all their hard work to make this project come together for me!
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yep... it works... had to mark my territory out front of my house... hope my neighbors are impressed too! haha

Shane
 
#18 ·
I like how you mark your territory! You have to get a video up so we can hear that beast running.

BTW, your Mallory fuel log, it looks it has the built in pressure regulator in it, how do you like it and is it pretty easy to setup? I'm really considering one of those and just wondering what you think about it.


Thanks, Dave S.
 
#21 ·
I had a local guy that owns a fab shop (builds road race mustangs) do the engine/trans install (as im no professional wrench)... he said the fuel log was a snap to set up, but did say that he had to run a tap into one of the holes where the fittings for the carb feed go, because it wassnt run in very deep, and made the two sides un square. not sure if every one would be like that or not. but obviously it eliminated the need for a seperate pressure regulator. also nice to have a full return system.

bob460 said:
Yeah very nice build, you must post video to hear this street torque monster!!!.

What size headers you using?
What converter using behind c6 and what diff ratio you running?
And how much maintanace involved in a build like this and how many miles will you get out of it before a freshen up?

Sorry about all the questions just keen to know, cheers Bob
Click to expand...
headers are 1 7/8 hookers, they are what I had on the previous iron head 466. future plans include 2 inch headers and a new exhaust system.

torque converter is a custom 10 inch mad by Ultimate Converter Concepts. (works great so far!)
rear end ratio is 4.10:1 (Detroit locker)

as for miles before freshen... dont know... Lem? how long before you think I should look at this engine... prob less than 1000 miles a season will be put on it (warm weather only)

Shane
 
#20 ·
Yeah very nice build, you must post video to hear this street torque monster!!!.
Just curious how much did the engine build cost?
What size headers you using?
What converter using behind c6 and what diff ratio you running?
And how much maintanace involved in a build like this and how many miles will you get out of it before a freshen up?

Sorry about all the questions just keen to know, cheers Bob
 
L
#26 ·
The heads were out of the box.......the manifold was CJ gasket matched only. P51 are pretty nice below the seats as delivered...they can be improved a lot but I'd be a full on port job. The FRPP SCJs are the ones than respond greatly to minor work.
 
#29 ·
Its no secret what I paid. But it seems like its often frowned upon to post dollar amounts on here... so I will follow suit. Lem, your welcome to post what I paid, if you dont mind it on here...

Shane
 
#33 ·
How she run?

Shane,
Were you able to get it out much before the weather took a dive? I'm originally from WI so I know how it gets up there. I would be interested to hear what your trials and tribulations have been so far. I am down in NC right now active duty Marines, but I have a prostreet 66' Fairlane with a full tube chassis and the motor mounts were moved back 10 inches from stock for weight transfer. I am thinking about running something close to what you have, but going with the boss nine heads and obviously the other top end parts that have to change with that. Any info you can provide me with would be greatly appreciated.
Don
 
#36 ·
66prostreetFairlane said:
Shane,
Were you able to get it out much before the weather took a dive? I'm originally from WI so I know how it gets up there. I would be interested to hear what your trials and tribulations have been so far. I am down in NC right now active duty Marines, but I have a prostreet 66' Fairlane with a full tube chassis and the motor mounts were moved back 10 inches from stock for weight transfer. I am thinking about running something close to what you have, but going with the boss nine heads and obviously the other top end parts that have to change with that. Any info you can provide me with would be greatly appreciated.
Don
Click to expand...
I got aprox 2 months of cruising time so far (which isnt ALOT) but, so far NO trouble to report. The carb still needs a little tweaking, as there is a minor stumble when going from say 30ish mph to hammering it (I have yet to really floor this thing).

No stalling, no problems starting hot or cold, runs just a few degrees above whatever thermostat I put in (currently running a 180 degree tstat)

As ive stated before, you will need to run manual brakes, and a manual valve body in your auto trans, as these types of engines simply dont make alot of vaccuum.

I will continue to update this thread (if folks are interested) as the next cruise season progresses.

Me personally, I will be interested to see how the roller cam/lifters live. Ive read so much about how they will work great on the street, to they will self destruct in no time at all... so time will tell I suppose!

Boss 9 heads on a similar build is my ultimate dream, budget was what stopped me!

Shane
 
7
#35 ·
i am building almost the duplicate motor, but i am broke and running factory heads ported to the max with large valves and a factory block, the cam i have has 698 lift, poeple have told me that cam will break valve springs if driven on the street very much, i would like to be able to drive it 2 hours away and not worry about breaking down, but i noticed ur running a big cam, is their a certain set of valve springs i should run that are really good? or just what the cam recomends?
 
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