[bigdan]

reviving this subject
relatively new here , and wanting to upgrade my 96 RV 460 ....

What size injectors are on an original 1996 460 ?

.................

procedure to push the timing to 12 degrees ...

thanks

Dan

 

[bigdan]

reviving this subject , relatively new here , and wanting to upgrade my 96 RV 460 ....

What size injectors are on an original 1996 460 ?

Procedure to push the timing to 12 degrees ...

thanks

Dan

 

[The Mad Porter]

reviving this subject , relatively new here , and wanting to upgrade my 96 RV 460 ....

What size injectors are on an original 1996 460 ?

Procedure to push the timing to 12 degrees ...

thanks

Dan

24# injectors oem.

Following the timing instructions under hood. Disconnect spout connector (typically near the remote mounted TFI module) set timing from 10 oem up to 12 to 14 depending on weight and altitude. Plug spout back in.



S

 

[bigdan]

Scotty , no sticker Under Hood beside belt configuration ....

found the spout , did the timing after cleaning up the damper .....
thanks !
Daniel

 

[sapp460]

460 performance

All the up grades in the forum will work great. you want to look at replacing the coil and some of the other sensors due to the age of the vehicle for max performance.

 

[bigdan]

someone offered me a 93 460 with E7TE heads ,,,,,$250.00 runs ok , no noise !
is it worth ?

Can I modify the E7TE heads, to be as good as modified F3TE ?
thanks
Dan

 

[The Mad Porter]

someone offered me a 93 460 with E7TE heads ,,,,,$250.00 runs ok , no noise !
is it worth ?

Can I modify the E7TE heads, to be as good as modified F3TE ?
thanks
Dan

88 to 92 EFI 460s utilized E7TE heads 1.980" intake valve size
93 to 97 utilized the F3TE heads. 2.084" intake valve size. (Same as the 1973 and up carbed engine)

After we install 2.084" or the Ferrea 2.110" intakes and pocket port the castings either will make 400 to 415 hp on our HP EFI crate engines. 207@ .050" intake duration.


S

 

[nelz214]

How do you fool the pc into thinking the her is just closed all the time without reflashing the pcm

 

[nelz214]

Sorry egr

 

[The Mad Porter]

Sorry egr

The part throttle timing tables are written with EGR functioning in the equation. Disable EGR and you now have the equivalent of too much vacuum advance.

EGR only functions at part throttle cruise when warm and does not have any effect on WOT power. Best to leave it in place.

There is now a tunable stand alone engine management system available that plugs into the existing EEC IV harness. I have a client up north using it with one of our 410 HP crate EFI engines with 255 LPH pumps and 26# injectors. He is very pleased so far.


https://www.wmsracing.com/wmsweb/SDS-WMS-SDS-Digital-Injection-System.html




S

 

[nelz214]

When you refer to removing the air silencer out of the intake hose are you referring to the plastic crossover tubes about halfway between you throttle body and your air filter box

 

[The Mad Porter]

When you refer to removing the air silencer out of the intake hose are you referring to the plastic crossover tubes about halfway between you throttle body and your air filter box

Yes as in removing the trumpet shaped horns on the airbox side. This is necessary as the engines performance is improved via headers and then internal mods.

In a stock application removal will help at higher rpm and hurt low end torque production.



S

 

[dantheman79]

Maybe I should start my own thread, but there is already lots of good info here so I will ask here.

Just bought a 1991 Ford F-350 dually with E4OD.

Plan is to spend a bit of cash porting some F3TE heads, and mill them down a little for a compression increase (maybe 9.2:1 roughly)

Of course I will also add headers and a fairly open exhaust.

What is my best option for a camshaft? I was looking at getting a mass air conversion kit so that I can use any camshaft I want to, but is it worth it? My guess is that the bump in compression will throw out the stock computer no matter what.

I will use the truck for towing, hauling a truck camper, or both.

Any feedback is appreciated. I called comp cams and they will recommended their EFI cam, but I'm thinking with the heads and compression upgrade along with mass air there must be a better option.

 

[OldGuyOldTruck]

There's another recent thread about milling heads.

Deck the block instead, increases quench. It increases compression but decreases tendency toward detonation.

http://www.460ford.com/forum/37-engine-tech/241689-power-add-compression-increase.html

An engine is a system of systems. If you don't take a systematic approach toward building an engine you are just playing. Playing an expensive game. My posts in that thread are poorly written but follow the links and read.

For starts, if you don't understand quench and dynamic compression ratio, don't do anything until you do, or until you get help.

 

[dantheman79]

There's another recent thread about milling heads.

Deck the block instead, increases quench. It increases compression but decreases tendency toward detonation.

http://www.460ford.com/forum/37-engine-tech/241689-power-add-compression-increase.html

An engine is a system of systems. If you don't take a systematic approach toward building an engine you are just playing. Playing an expensive game. My posts in that thread are poorly written but follow the links and read.

For starts, if you don't understand quench and dynamic compression ratio, don't do anything until you do, or until you get help.

Thanks for the reply! I did some reading after my post and I now realize that I will save my money and keep the stock computer and go with the EFI cam and NOT mill the heads. I don't want to spend a small fortune on this, I would just like it to perform better and hopefully get the best fuel economy possible out of the old big block!

 

[Falcon67]

>Just bought a 1991 Ford F-350 dually with E4OD

We have a 1993 same. 4:10, E4OD, 7.5L. About 104K on the truck. I pull a 10K+ lb 34' extra height race trailer and will be looking for a bit more torque production in the near future. I followed Scotty's post, but I have no need to spin the motor to 3400. I prefer to run at 2000-2200, around 64 MPH. 70 MPH MAX, less in a typical west Texas 25 MPH crosswind. I know a guy that has some headers for that truck and motor as he used to own one. That needs doing anyway because the right side has a small leak. Also already have timing at 12.

 

[The Mad Porter]

>Just bought a 1991 Ford F-350 dually with E4OD

We have a 1993 same. 4:10, E4OD, 7.5L. About 104K on the truck. I pull a 10K+ lb 34' extra height race trailer and will be looking for a bit more torque production in the near future. I followed Scotty's post, but I have no need to spin the motor to 3400. I prefer to run at 2000-2200, around 64 MPH. 70 MPH MAX, less in a typical west Texas 25 MPH crosswind. I know a guy that has some headers for that truck and motor as he used to own one. That needs doing anyway because the right side has a small leak. Also already have timing at 12.

The crate engine / upgrades I wrote about will out pull the oem configuration at 2000 to 2500 easily...


S

 

[OldGuyOldTruck]

>Just bought a 1991 Ford F-350 dually with E4OD

We have a 1993 same. 4:10, E4OD, 7.5L. About 104K on the truck. I pull a 10K+ lb 34' extra height race trailer and will be looking for a bit more torque production in the near future. I followed Scotty's post, but I have no need to spin the motor to 3400. I prefer to run at 2000-2200, around 64 MPH. 70 MPH MAX, less in a typical west Texas 25 MPH crosswind. I know a guy that has some headers for that truck and motor as he used to own one. That needs doing anyway because the right side has a small leak. Also already have timing at 12.

I want just about the same thing but I probably use my truck for more everyday driving these days. A upullit 4.30 gear set or rear end would be a boondoggle. 2800rpm is max torque for the stock engine, I think. I am wondering about a high torque, low octane, low rpm, stroker with aluminum heads to help with octane. ???

 

[Falcon67]

I'd never consider our F-350 DRW as a daily unless it was an emergency because one of the others was stuck at the dealer. It gets maybe 10 MPG empty and 6.75 pulling. Holds 18 gallons/tank and barely gets 90 miles on a tank when pulling. I run at 2000 RPM because at 2200 ( supposed max torque) it hunts 3rd and OD too much on small rises like overpasses. I get a lot less downshifting at 2000. Doesn't help that west Texas is far from flat. This truck is strictly for dragging a big bath package trailer to the races. About the most I'd consider would be headers to stop the cold manifold chugging and maybe a more displacement. I wouldn't do anything to the heads other than freshen. Has to run on 86 octane or we'll not go anywhere very often. It's 3 tanks from our house to Texas Motorplex. If a common 502 stroker and stock heads could be withing the management range of the existing FI system, then that would probably do it. Here, a stripper fleet single cab F-350 DRW with no options runs $40K, so I don't see us ever buying a nice 6.2L unless I find a deal. Paid $5K cash for this truck.

If I want a hot rod 460 - maybe soon - it'll go in the Falcon, not a truck LOL.

 

[The Mad Porter]

Bumping this up.
The information here should be made a sticky

Moderators???





Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
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