I was making ~695 on 93 octane with my 523, street use was limited but it was drivable. I was just more concerned with going fast than street driving it so I didn't drive it much.

P.S. And I put the combo together with all out of the box parts so don't let anyone BS you it can be done.

 

I'm wondering how much I will have? 460 with 429 cj heads. Valves are 2.25/1.75, mildly ported. Edlebrock RPM. Cloyes true roller timing gear set. New stock pistons, .20 over slight bore. Holley 750, Hooker pro comp headers. Comp thumper cam. What do you think? How much does a dyno cost? Haven't got the car back yet, they will be done next week I think.

 

i got 480hp and very streetable does have a lumpy cam but idles ok at 900rpm gets 13mph. put 2500 to 3000 miles thru the summer and 3-4 trips to the track best et on motor 11.45 @ 116 10.90s on spray

 

You must have a pretty light car with this combo. my current set up idles at 650-700 with a manual transmission and i've only gone 12.69 at 108mph. driving it for 5 days straight to work and around town, i got 11mpg average until the tank went low.

i'm hoping to have my new motor built to run 11.0 ET or very close to it. 625hp'ish should get me really close. but yet again, i really enjoy driving on the street and i cruise alot at 50-60mph around my town so i do more steady driving than stop light to stop light. but do i want to have to rev to 3000rpms and slip the clutch just to get going, NO.

 

What's your car weigh and what's a GOOD ET?

 

I built my 91 Lincoln MKVII as a race car to drive on the street.Weighs 3900lbs with a 557 and a C6.Easy to drive and runs 10.0s.I don't even think about gas milage and I understand that it P.Os a few neighbors whenever I start it.Good luck with your project.

 

Man, I would love to see some pics of this.

 

What is 'streetable'?

I was using my fairly mild 77 Cougar (when it had a higher compression 460 now in my F100) deliver product to three stores with an 60 mile trip combined city and highway and still make a little money from the mileage check. Had no problem hopping in it at the last minute for a 110 mile round trip to my girlfriend's family's place for a gathering during one of the several feasts that occur around here this past summer, and dealt with getting caught up in a parade and foot traffic.

Streetable to me is that, without panicking over temperature gauges or pedaling the idle.

 

i feel my truck is streetable but i dont use it as a daily driver its to nice and my toy plus 13mph on highway would brake me for gas

 

3040hp

 

haha, I'm on a military SSgt salary here my friend!

 

anybody else running some pretty serious motors on the street?

 

im running a 533ci BBF with the following:

10.6-10.8 comp
TFS street heads
Victor intake
260/269 @.05 SR .655/.656
1150 Dominator
2" headers/ 3.5" collectors/ 3" x-pipe to magnaflows

car is a convertible 68' Galaxie (4070lbs.) with a c6 tranny and 9in rear with 3.70 gears. So far its got maybe 2000-2500miles all on the street. Hasnt seen any track time yet due to no roll bar and most importantly, no funds. Anyways, car drives fine, idle isnt very radical at about 1000rpm, shes got a bit of a drinking problem though 5-7mpgs so i dont drive her as often as i used to, especially since most car meets are about 30miles away.

car dynoed @:
496rwhp @6250rpm 14/8afr. i then upped the jets 2 sizes (shoulda done more) and she put down
512rwhp @ 14.4 afr. and ran outta time on the dyno.

Then i bought a jet kit and o2 sensor and tuned the carb and right now its sittin at about 13.3 afr. feels like a makes tons more power, but who knows maybe its all tq. im hoping for 535+rwhp next time i dyno.

 

With a N/A motor 600 to 700 HP will be about it and still be driveable. Everybody has a different idea of "driveable" so that is really kind of hard to quantify. It kind of comes down to the type of cam and valves springs you are running and what the acceptable level of maintenance is for you. But there again everybody will have a different opinion of what an acceptable level of maintenance is.

If you want to do somthing with more HP then there is always the forced induction route. You could potentially lay down 800 to 1000 HP at the rear wheels and still be "streetable".

 

i've got a 521 in my 1974 f 250 4x4,guessing about 600hp,its 10.5.1 comp,scotty's ported c8 heads on it,cam is 260/270 @.050 solid lifter cam,1000cfm 4150 carb,headers, and a victor dominator intake on top with a hvh supersucker adapter,has a 3800 edge stall converter in it,with 38" tires and 4.88"s.i race this in the mud bogs all summer long and its driven to and from every event

 

that sounds pretty healthy for a truck motor! is it fairly easy to run from street light to street light?

 

not too bad really,i do lots of running around town with it and it manages,lol,kinda sluggish due to stall in it, but it ya wanna impress the boys in their z 71's,it will really open there eyes at 35 mph,lol,rear end has a spool in it so it does a really good 2 wheel burnout,till i let off the gas lol

 

i cruise down woodward during dream cruise week and seen a turino with a 572 with dyno sheets showing hi 700 hp can remember the # but think 775 hp and he was driving it all week from home about 30 miles one way

 

i love the idea of driving high horsepower cars on the street but of course it takes enough room and road to be able to use more than a few hundred HP and of course, some COMMON SENSE!!!

however, now its going to come down to the point where i need to decide on if my traction lock differential is enough for the track and street or should i try out using a detroit locker on the street and have that guaranteed lock up at the track.

a interesting choice would be the truetrac, where it acts like a open diff until it needs it but i don't know if it'll ALWAYS lock at the track when needed.

of course, this is a car thats only driven on weekends and maybe once in a while to work to show it off.

 

im using the eaton truetrac and it seem to work fine at drag week i was hooking low 1.5 all week and i ran the $hit out of it handed alot xbrand there a$$

 

i run 31 spline true trac with 3.89 and auto with overdrive and 275x60x15 MT. DR. going to run 315x60x15 or 325x50x15 this year the 275 wont hold with spray started spraying the end of last year 150hp hit

 

I've been driving my '71 Torino for about 4yrs on the street, and I love it. Many comments and head turns when I roll up. I built a 545ci with Kaase heads, ProSystems 4150 carb, Det Locker, 3.70 Currie, TKO 600. At 70mph I get 13mpg. Have gone through 2cams b/c of rocker failure, but have a total of about 38k on the engine. Here's a link to the initial build.

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103742

 

i'm assuming you are also running at least 600ish HP. how well is the tko 600 holding up to that kind of power? any runs down the track with slicks?

i am already assuming that i'm going to have to take in my TKO 600 so i won't have the 2-3 problem many people have. i didn't have the problem with the 460 because i shifted before 6000rpms.

how well does that detroit locker run on the street? 31 or 35 spline?

 

Hey TAKEANUMBR what is the part number for the crower "HIPPO" lifters, keep hearing about how good they are on the street. Thanks.

Bob

 

Bob "HIPPO" is just Crowers brand of high pressure pin oiling severe duty lifters. They seem to be a durable type/brand. I believe this is the link:

http://www.crower.com/lifters/rolle...llers-429-460-ford-874-od-int-offset-with-hi-pressure-pin-oiling-set16-598.html

 

running a spool in the rear of my truck with no ill manners,just some chirpping around corners lol

 

if i can stay with 31 spline axles no problem, then it'll save me from having to buy another housing. and if the 31 will work, then i can get a truetrac which tons cheaper than a 35 spline wavetrac.

i'd just hate to try launching a 521 with slicks from a manual transmission and break something because i didn't plan.

 

detroit locker 35 spline u wont have a problem they work on the street.i have a true trac and it works fine. but was talked into it by the rear end shop now i hear story about true trac being limited in hp they can hold around 600hp i got 480hp on motor and been spraying 150hp 630hp

 

on the street, i probably won't break my factory nodular cased 3rd member with my aftermarket 31 spline axles. however, i'm worried for when i decide that i'm going to launch my 521 thats getting built at 2000-4000rpms with slicks and on a clutch car that it might want to twist on me.

a fellower military personnel here is telling me maybe i should consider just getting my current axles gun drilled or something.

 

man where do you guys live? i cant believe you can enjoy these rides on the street. pass 100mph in this state you are a felon and you can/will be shoot by the popo to stop a pursuit. forget about the car, your license and you are going to prison not jail. fwiw, bobn

,,,.the shooting part has happened more than once in the twin city area.

 

Time to call it a day and buy an electric engine.......lol. Its fun just starting these torque monsters.....lol

Hey Shane did you find the problem with your engine?

Cheers, Bob

 

Sorry about the late reply,it's THE busy season.Only have old pictures.91 MKVII,557,P-51 heads,Victor intake,QFT 1250,Chet Herbert custom roller,Hooker headers,******* C-6 and converter,narrowed and braced 8.8 with Moser 33 axels.

 

Wow, what a cool car... very unique! Ive always love the Mark VIIs... but have never seen a big block in one! Id like to see more of this car!


I know the original post is about street/strip cars, but my car was mentioned in the thread... its a 100% street driven 1970 Torino GT with a pump gas 572 inch BBF making 750 horse at 6100 RPM...

here is a link to the build, which includes some pics of the engine and car

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146808

Shane

 

My Aussie Falcon GT coupe has a 545ci, C6 3000 stall, 3.89 locker, weighs 3900lbs is used as my weekend cruiser and so far has run 10.91 @ 130mph. Runs well on pump gas, no over heating in traffic. Tonight I'll be heading to a cruise with around 750 other tuff cars.

 

now that sounds like a serious street car. are you running regular street tires or are you running drag radials on a normal bases?

even with my mild 466 on street tires seems almost a useless thing to even think about.

 

I know how rough that can be to put a motor together and then having such a failure after only a short period.

gonna use the crane lifters again or switch them out? what caused the failure?

 

Not sure exactly what caused the faiure... if it was just a bad lifer? too much spring pressure/not enuf oil/oil pressure at idle (running rollers on the street). a combination of all of the above?

I went with Crane Elite roller lifters this time, lighter springs (I dont spin the engine past 6500 ever) and opened up the oil restrictor a touch to the cam oiling.

Shane

Sorry for the hijack!

 

Xoliex, you don't want to gundrill your axles. They do gundrilling for axles from least 35-40 splines (not sure do they drill 33 splines). According Moser Engineering gundrilling makes the axle 30 % weaker but ofcourse lighter. I have 35 splines moser's rated app. 1100hp. Gundrilling those would lower the rating to app. 850 hp, in a street car I don't see much sense in gundrillig - why pay extra to make them weaker??? I understand it in hardcore racing where you can save some weight but not for street.

I have used detroitlocker with 28 splines and with 35 splines axles, no issues ever. You cant though open the throttle in corner but who would when you've got some hp on your rearwheels. I've got a basic Ford Motorsport based M-6009-C460 crate engine, dissassembled, balanced and blueprinted with A429 heads, G-429 victor, C460 flattappet. Has not been in dyno here locally, but according the weight of the vehicle (3790 lbs with driver) and 1/4 mile trapspeed 118mph, I've got app. 500hp on rear wheels. 4.11 gears and TKO600 with 0,64 overdrive, gets the car to 15 mpg on highway with 60mph, if driving like a granny I can make it to the 16 mpg at 60mph.

If you're not sure from the TKO600 capabilities you can allways get one from MMR or from American Powertrain, they do modify TKO:s to handle more hp/torque. Stock TKO600 should handle a pinch over 700 lb ft, or at least it's what we have seen them to handle with slicks without issues in a 3600lbs car.

------------
edit:
I forgot to mention that with 500hp rearwheel power you don't need 35 splines axles, but it gives you a room for growth in future. That's exactly why I choose the 35 splines, since updating from 28 splines to 31 splines would have costed me the same.

 

With only 3790lbs race weight youre probably making closer to 430_450rwhp if youre trapping 118mph

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