Yes, but always put a clamp on it. Trans usually runs between 30-150PSi. Temp is the bigger issue of 150-225 degs. After 225, normally your trans is toast anyway.

 

It never hurts to put a bit of 'bubble flare' or the first step of an inverted flare into each end of a tube that will get a hose installed over it. I do that for my replacement trans cooler lines (although I'm using steel lines) in an accessible area just behind the radiator. And yes, two clamps on each side as well...

 

I flare those somehow. Bubble flare, half a wimpy SAE flare, Earl's beader tool, something the hose can't squeeze over. Otherwise I use common hard-line to barb adapter fittings such as this:

And yeah, I like the cunifer (copper-nickel-iron) tubing for higher pressures, corrosion resistance, and easy forming. Commonly listed for high-pressure brake lines. NOT copper plumbing tube. A much different animal. Most aluminum line is dead-soft for carb and return fuel lines, and usually rated only very low pressure, so I'd verify what you have.

 

Push lock fittings are not recommended on those cooler lines . As above better to bubble the end of the tube then clamp. If the tube is just straight now the hose will never stay on. You'll find the aluminum tube will start to deform from overtightening the clamp , hence hose comes off

 

Just to avoid confusion, there are two or more different "push lock" or "push to connect" fitting types, going by various names, for hard and semi-rigid tubing versus hose. The ones such as used in pneumatic and some fuel and lube systems (for examples) that grip the tubing outer diameter, and an internal sealing ring. These can be adapted to most any other system/fitting:

And those fittings and specific hose designed for clamp-less joining at higher pressures. Compression, AN, others, but once on, they are a royal pain to get off (and should be!). Used without clamps, they have been very reliable in common use over 50 years, including Ford fuel systems. Can be adapted to most any other system/fitting:

Just in-case that was causing confusion. 🤷‍♂️

 

Ideally AN fittings would be the best but my oil cooler only has provisions for hose clamps. It was suggested that I use fuel injection rubber hose clamps. Been using them for years now without any issues.

 

I had the same issue. I cut the barbs off and used a tube to AN adapter.

https://autosalesinc.pxf.io/c/40473...2996090/35994?subid=autolinker&u=https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-2200077

 

How much pressure do trans cooling lines actually have? I always assumed they were basically a flow thru deal with little pressure. I've seen plenty of lines come through here with the rubber hose and clamp setup over tubing with no problems. Personally I use 3/8 aluminum tubing with inverted flare fittings,usually 2 piece with a union for ease of installation and removal. I like aluminum because I'm convinced it helps dissipate heat.

 

Usually up to around 60 psi
I like to use EFI hose clips also work well

 

Near nothing at idle, but there are several "it depends" factors, such as trans type, stock, modified, power, rpm, etc. The PO of one of mine used 50 psi replacement hose and (good condition) it blew at steady cruise on the highway, emptied the fluid in seconds, and a 120-mile tow... longer story. From a TransEngineer:

[at idle when hot], so then I'd expect to see pressures of maybe 10-20 psi. Otherwise, maybe 30-40 psi. At speed (with converter locked or unlocked) it can also vary widely, depending on line pressure (which varies with the input torque level). So the "to cooler" pressure can be 40-120 psi depending on throttle."

One hint is that carb fuel line is 50 psi, EFI line is 100, and Gates Transmission hose is 400. In any case, I'd use robust stuff that has no concerns. The 25-foot rolls of aluminum line at online retailers was rated 35 psi IIRC. [EDIT - Jegs says 25 psi] I had some I relegated to fuel return line use (0-5 psi). I flared the AL tube like this:

 

Go to a hardware store and buy a 3/8" hose barb with a 3/8" compression fitting to slide over your 38" Aluminum tube and tighten the compression up. You will then have a proper hose barb for your cooler hose to connect to. You may still want to put two hose clamps over the barb area.

 

PSIG, that 25 psi rating has to be a misprint. A soda straw will hold close to 25. The cheap Allstar Performance stuff I buy,
23 bucks,25 ft roll,from Summit,is rated at working psi of 597,burst psi 2986,according to their site.