What’s the vehicle weight?
What transmission?
If auto what is the converter stall?
What gear ratio?
Planned use for the vehicle?

 

It's going in my truck that's about 6000 lbs
C6 auto
I believe it is the stock stall
Not sure
Street driven mostly

 

When that engine goes back together it will be 7.7 to 7.9 to 1.
You don't have a lot of options for cam timing that aren't going to kill the bottom end torque needed in your truck.

I generally use our 207 / 219 custom voodoo grind for this type of application. 110 lsa and advanced another 4* over straight up.

If your cylinder heads have OEM springs and umbrella seals you MUST keep lift at less than about .520"
In this case I would use the lower lift comp ex lobes OR a shelf 204 / 214 generic RV cam for lack of a better term.

The OEM cam timing for reference is 193 / 206 on a 113 in at 110 to 113 with a straight up timing set and 118 to 121 with the retarded set. Tolerance variation.
The performance EFI cam of the 90's was 204 / 216 on a 114 which was a good cam for the EFI and that crane grind was similar to the generic I listed.

A properly curved duraspark distributor is an important component.

DO NOT USE THE PERFORMER RPM. The performer is the correct intake here. Block or restrict cross over heat.

A 600 vac secondary properly tuned is more than enough carb.

We recently dyno'd a 1995 EFI take out with 190k miles. 476 tq and 312 hp using 500 cfm at 4100 rpm.



Scotty J. "AKA" The "Mad Porter"
"EMC 2006" 3rd place finisher
Ported BBF iron head specialist & Aluminum heads from all sources.
Custom ground cams
See our products in the Vendor for sale section
Customized crate engines
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Have you disassembled the engine yet? What's your budget?

 

Yes It's completely disassembled, heads are at the machine shop, and I don't want to spend more than 2500. I already have a good amount of the parts for it excluding cam, plus I have the performer RPM intake that as said by Scotty I shouldn't use. So no more than maybe 1000 to 1500 more total.

 

What would the machine shop charge to square and deck the block? Are you putting in new pistons?

 

I am not sure, I haven't had it priced. The engine only had around 100,000 miles and it was in an LTD that was treated very well, everything was very good and clean. So I had thought I would use the original pistons just re ringed. Since it was out and I wanted to wake it up a little without doing too much bottom end work, I was gonna de-smog it and add some performance mods.

 

Since you don’t have a cam yet you would be better served getting a custom ground cam and notched lifters from Scotty.

 

How would I go about doing that, and how much would it be?

 

Looks like decking the block .020" would raise the C/R about .3, probably not enough to be worth spending the money on for this project.

 

I already have a good amount of the parts for it excluding cam, plus I have the performer RPM intake that as said by Scotty I shouldn't use.

Not to poke the bear but this is why questions need to be asked before the build and parts gathering starts.

 

This is my first time on here yes, but I haven't gone without doing any research or asking questions. Almost all parts I have for it will be going on it, besides that intake which was actually recommended for this build by multiple people for some reason. I am not very deep in yet and I have a lot of parts from other engines too, nothing I have is required to be put on this engine. I will likely build more of these engines eventually in the future also, when I have more knowledge on everything I'm doing, given I'm not very old if you couldn't tell.

 

HI,
Yes you want a split lift on the BBF's.
I ran a .30 over 1977 block, home ported D3's with Comp roller tip rockers with guide plates, Cam was Lunita .516 lift intake and .543 lift exhaust and I believe 110 LC. . 750 Edelbrock and performer intake. At the drags first time out turned 14.5 1/4 mile in my 1964 4 door International Truck.